Switching Out Pods for OEM Air Filters

TopHat9000

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Please don't hate on me too much for not knowing this stuff, but when I bought my CL350 a month and half ago a previous owner had 86ed the original style air filters and housing and switched them out for those pods I see everywhere. The bike runs fine, BUT...what do you think would be the result if I went back to filters the way it was intended and what kind of work/money/out-sourcing could I expect to incur? I don't know jack about re-jetting and such.
Thanks, and be gentle.
 
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All depends on what’s been done to this point. If mounting tabs have been removed it’s a long uphill climb.

Regardless, it’s going to be a bit speedy, but it’s pretty easy since everything would bolt right up and factory jets are still available (assuming the carb has even been rejected to begin with).

From a performance perspective, the bike will run better at idle and lower/mid ranges - WOT will be about the same.
 
EzPete said:
All depends on what’s been done to this point. If mounting tabs have been removed it’s a long uphill climb.

Regardless, it’s going to be a bit speedy, but it’s pretty easy since everything would bolt right up and factory jets are still available (assuming the carb has even been rejected to begin with).

From a performance perspective, the bike will run better at idle and lower/mid ranges - WOT will be about the same.
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Tabs and all the connection points are still intact. I was wondering more about how performance would be affected, since I'm assuming less air can get into the carbs. But I think you have answered the question. Thank you.

Edit: except for WOT. Not familiar with that acronym.
 
Wide Open Throttle. It’s not really a matter of more/less air overall, it’s more an about having better balanced and less turbulent air through the intake plenum and into the mix. Volatile airflow gives volatile results so you’ll see a more even idle, a bit less funkiness through the powerband - depending on the pods you may actually get better airflow overall since the cheaper ones can actually block some of the slow speed and idle passages (depending on carb model). The cheaper cone filters tend to do this more and why thy can really cause problems getting idle right.
 
EzPete said:
Wide Open Throttle. It’s not really a matter of more/less air overall, it’s more an about having better balanced and less turbulent air through the intake plenum and into the mix. Volatile airflow gives volatile results so you’ll see a more even idle, a bit less funkiness through the powerband - depending on the pods you may actually get better airflow overall since the cheaper ones can actually block some of the slow speed and idle passages (depending on carb model). The cheaper cone filters tend to do this more and why thy can really cause problems getting idle right.
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Alright, I'll give it a try. The more stock the bike is the better.
 
Does anyone by any chance know the length of the air filter thru rod, with or without the brass finials?

My CL came to me with the rod and finials that held the two side covers together, but inside the OEM filters and housings had been replaced with pods.

I've received new filters and housings but now the rod won't make it through from end to end, even without the finials on. The filters are seated all the way in the tube, yes, and everything seems to fit snugly and true, but the rod just isn't long enough. I'm wondering if my thru rod has been shortened for some reason or if I'm just doing something wrong. I imagine the side covers were snugged in more when the pods were in place so the rod was able to make it all the way through.

Also, do the exhaust pipes typically have to be loosened and moved out of the way to install the left air filter cover? Looks like it's going to be a tight fit.
IMG_6314.jpeg
 
It's always fun piecing these bikes back together if the PO's have modified it... do you have the little grommets in the side covers? 1776804162958.png
 
TopHat9000 said:
Does anyone by any chance know the length of the air filter thru rod, with or without the brass finials?
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I happen to have one off of a bike that is easy to measure. Total length with both brass ends removed = 9-5/8” (245 cm)
The CL rod has the middle product code 286 so I believe the CB and CL would interchange. I do not know which year and model that my rod was taken from.
And yes, on a CL350 you pretty much have to remove the exhaust to do any kind of maintenance much less to take off the left side cover. It sucks.
 
12ozPBR said:
I happen to have one off of a bike that is easy to measure. Total length with both brass ends removed = 9-5/8” (245 cm)
The CL rod has the middle product code 286 so I believe the CB and CL would interchange. I do not know which year and model that my rod was taken from.
And yes, on a CL350 you pretty much have to remove the exhaust to do any kind of maintenance much less to take off the left side cover. It sucks.
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Yep, mine is 9 5/8", too. Must be user error on my part somehow. Thanks for the confirmation, 12oz.
 
TopHat9000 said:
Yep, mine is 9 5/8", too. Must be user error on my part somehow. Thanks for the confirmation, 12oz.
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I give the RHS metal cover a good smack with my hand then feed the rod through with the brass piece backed off to give max length. Lean over the bike and worry the rod through to the LHS that I have also given a good smack to. I then use my knee against the RH cover while putting the brass piece on. You will be surprised how much the pieces compress.

You may want to use a light lube on the rubber pieces in the frame cross over.

On my CL350 I painted the metal covers and don't use the plastic covers. With a bit of juggling I can remove and install the cover/air filter and carb if needed without removing the exhaust.
 
Got it. The filter housing and the metal plate the actual filter is adhered to just weren't clicking together correctly, so the entire assemblies were taking up more lateral room than they should have. A good smacking here and a little persuasion there and it all came together just fine. Next up. Re-removing the pipes to get the side cover on.
 
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