AustonG
Well-known Member
Now that I think about it I’ve never checked chain slack specs. This might be problem.
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CM400T Build / Questions
- Thread starter AustonG
- Start date
How are the chain and sprockets doing? Either one or both can cause the sense of throttle lag.
Shouldn't need that washer in the release mechanism, clutch adjustment will keep everything close. Freeplay at the case lever should be set to 1-2mm, use a 17mm open end wrench on the lever to manipulate it. Screw the bar lever adjuster all the way in before doing the clutch adjust.
Shouldn't need that washer in the release mechanism, clutch adjustment will keep everything close. Freeplay at the case lever should be set to 1-2mm, use a 17mm open end wrench on the lever to manipulate it. Screw the bar lever adjuster all the way in before doing the clutch adjust.
Use 8K for a shift point, you want the engine running over 4500 rpm cruising in any gear.
AustonG
Well-known Member
I did that with the clutch initially after I replaced the plates and still had a quit bit of play before any engagement. I was thinking the level was worn internally which is why I added the washer. When im able to look at the bike again I’ll open the clutch back up and make sure all the correct thrust washers and everything are in the assembly. I failed to do that upon assembly because I assumed everything was there.
I haven’t checked the chain / sprockets since I bought it (stupid me). I plan on replacing them regardless so I may just go ahead and do that.
If you're going into the clutch again take a look at the out basket fingers where the clutch plates engage. It should be a smooth surface, no indentations. If there are simply file them smooth.
AustonG
Well-known Member
8K? WOW! Really using the whole engine haha.
PS, I wanted to talk to you specifically LDR. I’m debating taking this bike to Rocky Mountain Raceweek this year. It’s 1,200 miles over 7 days. Aside from the obvious systems checks before making the drive, do you think the bike could do it without severe concern for failures? I’m worried it’s age may show. The bike only has 6,600 miles though.
AustonG
Well-known Member
I do distinctly remember the discs and basket being in basically perfect condition. In all honestly im not sure I even needed to replace the springs / plates but I did anyways haha.
ROFLMAO
Ride it like you stole it. Go over everything on the bike to insure it's all good. Take some basic tools, a quart of oil, chain lube, maybe a pair of plugs. My CM400T has hit all 48 states over 2 different, months long, road trips. A few issue popped up on each trip but solved and continued.
New to me bikes get things like clutches and brake linings automatically.
AustonG
Well-known Member
Sweet, any issues I should be worried about to prepare? CDI boxes aren’t going to blow out or anything? HahahaROFLMAO
Ride it like you stole it. Go over everything on the bike to insure it's all good. Take some basic tools, a quart of oil, chain lube, maybe a pair of plugs. My CM400T has hit all 48 states over 2 different, months long, road trips. A few issue popped up on each trip but solved and continued.
AustonG
Well-known Member
Yeah I need to get new brakes here pretty soon.
With the original CDI anything is possible. There's no way to predict failure or prevent it. Mine died on the 1st tour, replaced with a used and continued. Frank, @Maraakate , makes new ones.
AustonG
Well-known Member
Hmm that’s good to know, may have to consider bringing spares. Any and all info on any parts that could go wrong would be amazing. I’ll have plenty of storage to bring stuff
esmith250624
Veteran Member
There is some freeplay in the driveline on these models. some others on the internet have called it "transmission slop", but maybe this is what you are experiencing? The rear drive rubbers in the rear wheel are supposed to absorb some of the shock transitioning from the dead zone between deceleration and acceleration, but most of these are old and hardened up. If you get on the throttle to quickly the driveline will move quickly in that freeplay zone and then abruptly catch once the gears reverse direction. this is most noticable at slow speeds, stop and go traffic. Check your chain and sprockets of course since this will exaggerate the issue.
On the clutch action, LDR probably replaces the clutch because you never know how light or hard the previous owner rode the bike. on my 2 bikes the clutch operation is different on both (Same engine model), one moves a longer distance and then has a short transition period at the end of release, the other is more linear and engages gradually over the entire pull range. I don't feel like either one slips at higher RPM.
On the clutch action, LDR probably replaces the clutch because you never know how light or hard the previous owner rode the bike. on my 2 bikes the clutch operation is different on both (Same engine model), one moves a longer distance and then has a short transition period at the end of release, the other is more linear and engages gradually over the entire pull range. I don't feel like either one slips at higher RPM.
AustonG
Well-known Member
Gotcha, for some reason I completely oversighted drivetrain past the transmission. Next chance I get I will 100% check the sprockets, chain, and drive rubbers. If I plan to do Rocky Mountain it might be best to go ahead and replace all of them.