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1966 CL160D project
- Thread starter Yakeye
- Start date
Slow progress……Head done. New valves and outer springs. Passed the leak test.
Kickshaft, shift drum, transmission along with crank back in top half of case. Bearings indexed on new knock pins…. Old ones bent.
Let me know if someone sees something terribly amiss!!
Now cleaning and polishing engine hardware! My favorite task.
Kickshaft, shift drum, transmission along with crank back in top half of case. Bearings indexed on new knock pins…. Old ones bent.
Let me know if someone sees something terribly amiss!!
Now cleaning and polishing engine hardware! My favorite task.
Attachments
Looking good. When you go to place the other side of the case, be really careful that the bronze bushings don’t pop of their knock pins. Mine kept trying to jump off and it can be hard to see that from the top until you start tightening the case up.
Everything looks good, but I'm a little concerned about the bluing on that one shift fork - what does the side view show on the tips of the fork and the possible half-circle wear it might show that caused the discoloration?
Thanks Tom. They are not bent and dit not appear to have atypical wear to my eye but I look at them more critically.
If it has any scoring on it like this (exaggerated example) then it is usually bent, and they rarely get hot enough to blue unless there's a reason.
Tom I finally got back to garage to lift transmission out to recheck the shift fork you mentioned in an above photo.
Here are new pics. Some wear on one side but do not appear bent. Thoughts??
They rarely appear bent visually, but when they have any wear or light gouging on one side like shown in your first picture, it shows the fork was pushed hard one way and I try to find a replacement. I don't have the equipment to measure if it's out of spec, but since the engagement depth is sometimes only 3/16" or so every millimeter it's tweaked can help it jump out of engagement under load. Also, what at first looks like they both got hot might actually be a oil level stain? Hard to be sure from a picture though. And since (I'm assuming) you didn't ride with this engine to know if it shifted properly, it would suck to put it all together only to have to go back in there again.
NPN has two shift forks in stock for $11.54 each which in my opinion is a very good price. I would change both out for that price.
That's an unbelievable price, I'd jump on that before it disappears.
They are used, but look to be in good condition.
I know they sell used stuff but I didn't even look at that area when I checked the link because they looked so clean and shiny, I just assumed they were new. Still a great deal and I'd buy them too if needed.
mike in idaho
Veteran Member
Put the trans shafts back in place, then turn the shift drum into the various gear positions, then grab the gears with your fingers and try to pull the engagement dogs apart. The engagement dogs should stay in at least 50% engagement. Remove the shift forks from the drum and lay them on their sides, with the fingers facing each other, they should be the same height from the table.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
The knock pins also keep wear on the forks down. If the trans shafts shift then the forks also wear funny.
Good point I had never thought about that but makes sense. Mine were a little weird and miss shaped and I have replaced with new. I’ll check for any lateral movement.
We got this done today: 1. Can’t pull dogs apart so that’s good. 2. With shift forks on flat surface they are even.
So I have decided to go with these… !
Here is cleaned up cam chain tensioner . No chips or missing rubber. On the larger wheel you can see some chain imprint form the chain likely sitting under tension for a long time??? This bike was stored for several years before my purchase. Rubber is hard to the touch. Use or replace?
Thank for any thoughts.
I don't think I'd bother replacing that, unless you feel like dropping $150 on a NOS unit that may have hardened plastic anyway - 60 years is 60 years after all!
Doesn't appear to be cracking or chipping so some engine heat and oil may just soften it up a bit. Just make sure that tensioner rod is smooth and not binding. That design puts a lot of stress on that rod if it's been loose for a while.
Doesn't appear to be cracking or chipping so some engine heat and oil may just soften it up a bit. Just make sure that tensioner rod is smooth and not binding. That design puts a lot of stress on that rod if it's been loose for a while.
Finally got a little time to look at the motor today. Going to try and get cases sealed with Honda bond and back together in next few weeks. But ….. I find these 2 thrust washers adjacent to my parts try where I keep my clean parts ready for reassembly !!! I try to bag and tag everything and am usually pretty good about that. I am not sure they go to the CL160 . But now I’m nervous I have left them off of the transmission or kickstart or shift drum !!! I have look at my disassembly photos and the parts fiches on line and can find anything that looks like these 2 that go into the bottom end.. 
So cl/cb160’s gurus please help !!! Any ideas do these even go on the 160?? Could be from something else I have worked on from wife’s kitchen mixer to grand kid toys. So frustrating.
Thanks for any help.
So cl/cb160’s gurus please help !!! Any ideas do these even go on the 160?? Could be from something else I have worked on from wife’s kitchen mixer to grand kid toys. So frustrating.
Thanks for any help.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
I never laid a hand on one of these motors, but it is curious that the transmission uses 20mm washers (slightly different shape shown in the fiche).
Parts Fiche
Perhaps they are used to control endplay?
Parts Fiche
Perhaps they are used to control endplay?
stl360+450, Thank you for your input. I confirmed those 20mm washers shown on the fiche are in place on both main and counter shafts. I really can’t figure a way these “orphaned” washers would fit on the trans shafts. The ID of the washer is 16mm. I’ll keep looking!!
RobMan
Veteran Member
My first thought is the cam. The CB450 uses similar shims for cam end play.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
Well, hopefully, either your wife or one of the grandkids will come back with a complaint on their repair and you can solve this mystery. Let us know what you discover!