MisterButtercup's Mechanical Madness

Joined
Aug 11, 2025
Total Posts
17
Total likes
5
Location
Near Philly, PA, US
Hello! Starting a rebuild thread for my 1980 CB400T with 37,400 miles. Going to use this as a way to keep my notes together and in the same place, as well as ask questions of the knowledgeable folks here. The previous owner told me that it needed a new fuel filter and spark plugs, but it had a newer chain and tires that he put on before it was parked, and would probably start with a new battery and plugs.

Pick it up, and find out that the front brake lever is both a bit stiff and doesn't do anything to stop the bike. Went to unload it from the uhaul trailer and the bike started leaning, I try the brake but nothing happens and the bike tips over, denting the fuel tank on the side rail, enough that some paint flaked off, but not enough that I'm worried about any holes or anything (it only dropped about 1-1/2 ft onto it's side, thankfully). Was able to laugh and say "Well, it's mine now!" and stopped worrying about any other cosmetic issues. There was also some white crusty residue around the bottom of the brake reservoir, so I'm thinking that one of the seals broke due to age, so a master cylinder rebuild kit will be purchased for a rainy day rebuild, both for lever as well as the caliper.

My neighbor(who has a '93 goldwing) asked me about the tires, and we checked the date codes, tires were new in late 2005. So I'll use those for now so it has something rubber, but will change those out before I hit any decent speeds or any roads with anything resembling a curve.

In late May/early June I changed the oil - complete with new filter washer - changed out the spark plugs, put some new fuel in it - drained/flushed the carbs with the new fuel, and was able to get it running! I rode it for 1.2 miles up and down a side street, and pushed it for another .2 miles when it died to try and help it get back home. It would run ok, making a lot of noise, but then it seemed like it would heat up and I would lose throttle response. no matter what it would just bog down, and then I'd have to open the choke to try to start it, and even if it did start while warm, with the choke open, it still wouldn't rev and would soon die regardless.

Also noticed a tiny bit of fresh oil had leaked out onto the front of the engine, by the head gasket area on the right cylinder.

Borrowed a compression tester, and was getting around 160/170 on both cylinders. Also noticed when giving the compression test that ever now and then a spurt of air would blow out from the valve cover gasket on the back left side. Not every time, but enough to notice and think to myself "hey this shouldn't be a thing..."
Also, when doing the compression test I saw that the left side spark plug was already oily, The right side was not.

The chain is rusty in the middle, but doesn't have kinks. The sprockets are definitely somewhat worn, but the previous owner had already purchased new sprockets, but never put them on! Be jealous of my completely brand new and shiny sprockets. I'll keep an eye on this chain, and when it starts showing wear I'll go ahead and replace everything, but for now it should be fine.

That's how it sat for the rest of June and July, and then a week ago I realized that it's not getting any more fixed, and I just need to start doing something! Had paralyzed myself into worrying about what to do with the new gas I sloshed through the tank, but it turned out that it wasn't too bad, and the few rusty particles were easily filtered by a coffee filter, I can use that in other things, and the best part, the new gas in the tank isn't actually rusty! so I guess it was just a few spots, but no new rust, and the gas is mostly clear, but not any bits were rust tinged, so really really happy about that. Keeping the gas in there for now.

I pulled the carbs off, labeled the throttle(both) and choke cables. The carb intake boot on the engine was already cracking when I started, and were already shot. I wiped out the cylinder intakes and stuffed some paper towels in the holes so critters don't get any ideas.

Next up(tomorrow, Saturday the 16th if I can swing it) will be re-installing my new battery and testing the LongDistanceRider recommended voltage points to rule out any potential electrical issues, I want to be sure those gremlins are fed before midnight.

The last thing I can think of is I need a new gasket for the rear brake light, and also to fabricate mounts for the new bolts, as two of the three mounting threads broke off, and I want more than just one small (8-32nd diameter) bolt to keep it on.


Questions - Answers appreciated but never expected, I know there are a lot! Again, this is my journal/build record for the motorcycle, and these are also questions that I need to ferret out and get answers to on the restoration journey to make sure that I'm keeping track of everything. Let me know if there are more that I need to ask! So please, if you don't feel like answering some or all of these, don't! I'll be back with notes and more updates as I go along.

Overall/Random:
  • One of the sponsors of this website is scrambler cycle. How well is their parts fitment? I'm leery of parts copies but thinking of using them for some gaskets and carb boots(mine were cracked when I looked at them the wrong way they cracked some more) but would be nice to know before purchasing that there won't be issues.
  • It seems like the mesh screen for the petcock on this exact motorcycle is unobtainium, Can one be used from an earlier/later model CB? Does it matter?
    • The previous owner told me that his mechanic recommended a fuel filter change as he had the same bogging issue, but these bikes only have the mesh screen, no other inline filter.
  • Does this bike have a cush drive?
    • This is a reminder for me, will dig into that when I get closer to getting a new back tire/rear brake shoes.
  • Keep a half gallonish of fuel in the tank, fill it, or empty it and let it dry out?
Brakes:
  • For the Front brake reservoir, the white plastic has spiderweb cracks all around it. Send it, replace it, or doesn't really matter? I'm leaning toward replacing it if I can find a reasonable replacement.
    • Also not sure how to remove just the reservoir, so might try to source a front brake lever/reservoir/master cylinder and replace the entire thing.
  • I adjusted the rear brakes a little bit, but will need to adjust them a lot more before I can get them within spec/would like them to engage sooner than 2-1/2 inches down ballet toes. Would it be recommended to just get new brake shoes and replace those when I get a new rear tire? Haven't taken the back tire off yet to look at the brakes, but thinking that might just be something to do, as I like brakes and stopping whenever I want to.

Carbs
  • Question for Long Distance Rider regarding the carb rebuild and recommending replacing the screws with the allen bolts, is there a recommended resource for those bolts?
  • The left side carb had a lot of what looks like carbon buildup on the intake as well as the butterfly valve on the carb. This was also the side where there was oil on the plug. Would changing out the valve cover gasket solve this? or is this a sign that the timing is a bit off?
Engine:
  • As noted above for the carbs, I plan on taking off the valve cover and at least replaceing the gasket. Will probably also check clearances while I'm there.
    • Is this also a good time to check timing?
  • Thinking hard about pulling the head and changing that gasket as well. I will read more about it in the shop manual, but is that a job that should just wait, or something that "while I'm down there" it's worth doing? The small oil leak has me concerned, as that's also something the previous owner had mentioned, and I could see where it had been leaking.

If you read this far, then I thank you, I apologies for the lack of pictures, will re-read how to get those set up on the site and try to get some posted soon, and also I hope you have a great Weekend!
 
Random:
Kevin at Scrambler stocks good parts so no fear in using any of them.
The petcock screen can be easily cleaned rather than replaced assuming it's still in place and undamaged. The petcock has to be removed and an easy out used to extract it.
Yes, it's cushion drive.
I'd keep fuel in the tank and squish it around every once in awhile. The fumes will keep the tank from rusting.
Brakes:
I would just replace the master cylinder and while you're at it replace the brake hose with a SS braided version.
Definitely replace the rear shoes, age causes glue failure and delamination resulting in the wheel locking up while riding.
Carbs:
I don't know of any screw kits per se for the carbs. I pulled all the screw sizing from here https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/1980/cb400t-a-hawk/carburetor and ordered from Belmetric.com
Carbon build up could very well be from valves too tight. VC gasket wouldn't have any effect on that. Ignition timing is set and fixed since this is a wasted spark(both plugs fire at the same time) CDI ignition.
Engine:
Replace the valve cover gasket AND the 2 bolt grommets. Adjust the valves. NOTE! the valve cover bolts are a partial thread shouldered bolt. Once the shoulder contact the rocker stand it's tight, tightening further will snap the bolt off.
After the valves and gasket are done spray the engine with GUNK engine degreaser to clean it. follow the directions. Then run the engine to see if the leak is still present, the VC gasket could be the cause for misdiagnosis.
 
off to a good start. LDR pretty much covered everything. I would only add that 4into1 has an aftermarket petcock for this model that is the same design as the OEM, and you could just use the filter screen portion if that is the only issue or it gets buggered up trying to remove the old one. you have plenty to work on at the moment so I will just wish you luck, my guess is most of your work at this point will be carburetors. Let us know your progress.
 
Random:
Kevin at Scrambler stocks good parts so no fear in using any of them.
Awesome, that's great to hear! He's got really good prices, and his site is really easy to navigate.
The petcock screen can be easily cleaned rather than replaced assuming it's still in place and undamaged. The petcock has to be removed and an easy out used to extract it.
The bike didn't have a screen when I got it, so I need to either get a new one or just have no screen.
Yes, it's cushion drive.
Ok thank you, I'll get those parts for when I do the rear brake and tire.
I'd keep fuel in the tank and squish it around every once in awhile. The fumes will keep the tank from rusting.
Perfect, can do that gladly!
Brakes:
I would just replace the master cylinder and while you're at it replace the brake hose with a SS braided version.
Ok, I heard about changing out the brake hose and was wondering, so will be doing that then. Is there a recommended size or place to get them?
Definitely replace the rear shoes, age causes glue failure and delamination resulting in the wheel locking up while riding.
Will do!
Carbs:
I don't know of any screw kits per se for the carbs. I pulled all the screw sizing from here https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/1980/cb400t-a-hawk/carburetor and ordered from Belmetric.com
Wasn't looking for the kit, I don't mind sourcing the different sizes, but wasn't sure where to get them, so this helps, thank you!
Carbon build up could very well be from valves too tight. VC gasket wouldn't have any effect on that. Ignition timing is set and fixed since this is a wasted spark(both plugs fire at the same time) CDI ignition.
Today I learned! Thanks!
Engine:
Replace the valve cover gasket AND the 2 bolt grommets. Adjust the valves. NOTE! the valve cover bolts are a partial thread shouldered bolt. Once the shoulder contact the rocker stand it's tight, tightening further will snap the bolt off.
After the valves and gasket are done spray the engine with GUNK engine degreaser to clean it. follow the directions. Then run the engine to see if the leak is still present, the VC gasket could be the cause for misdiagnosis
Ok thank you, a friend of mine who has worked on bikes before said the same thing but I wasn't sure about that, so this is a relief. (And yes it still could be, but at this point I can cross that bridge when I come to it.
 
off to a good start. LDR pretty much covered everything. I would only add that 4into1 has an aftermarket petcock for this model that is the same design as the OEM, and you could just use the filter screen portion if that is the only issue or it gets buggered up trying to remove the old one. you have plenty to work on at the moment so I will just wish you luck, my guess is most of your work at this point will be carburetors. Let us know your progress.
The issue isn't changing out the old screen, it's that I have no screen! Will look into them, that sounds like a good solution.

And thanks! will keep this thread updated as things progress for sure
 
Sources for the hose
https://www.gbrakes.com/shop/moto/l...wcB&gbraid=0AAAAAC3V7GZAdvYt00lsfxNtxAbbumnRp Listing is for a CM400A which has different bars so might be a little too long
https://www.russellperformance.com/shop/russell-brake-clutch.html Measure your current hose to get the right size

I have 2 spare petcock screens if you want one. Need the measurement of long tube of the petcock.
 
+1 on not tightening the valve cover bolts past where they seat. I snapped one on mine when checking my valves and man was that stress inducing to get out. When you get to the cush drive, check if your dampers are in good shape. New OEM ones are almost $120 for a set and I personally didn't care for the replacements DSS sells. They didn't quite fit right in my wheel, but they are spec'ed for an '80 rather than a '78, so maybe my fault.
 
+1 on not tightening the valve cover bolts past where they seat. I snapped one on mine when checking my valves and man was that stress inducing to get out. When you get to the cush drive, check if your dampers are in good shape. New OEM ones are almost $120 for a set and I personally didn't care for the replacements DSS sells. They didn't quite fit right in my wheel, but they are spec'ed for an '80 rather than a '78, so maybe my fault.
Will make sure to be extra careful on those bolts, thank you! Will be checking the cush drive for sure, have to replace the rear brake pads(was going to adjust them, but saw that to adjust them to spec was as fully adjusted as they would go, so I'm wondering if they are the originals, and if that's the case then I'm glad I only ever took the bike to around 20 mph on the test ride), so I'll already be in the area.
 
The Honda FSM doesn't have a lot on the carbs. Might read thru this https://www.vintagehondatwins.com/forums/threads/how-to-rebuild-the-vb-carburetors.24/
Helm Inc. is the authorized reprinter for the FSM https://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?r=https://www.google.com/
Oh I have a tab with that walkthrough open! Will be rereading it until it's about memorized. I've already taken pictures of the outside of everything, but haven't yet started disassembly.

Thanks for the Helm link! The manual is for everything else when I'm in the middle of it and don't want to try and pull my phone out to look up the manual halfway through replacing the gearshift gasket - which, finding the leak there explains how it was so low on oil when I first changed the oil.
 
Last edited:
Ok, so I've disassembled the brakes completely. I don't know how long it's been since they've been done, but there was brown gunk in the master cylinder, and something like sand came out of the caliper boot when I pulled it off(in addition to the normal whiteish dried brake fluid)

Will be ordering a master cylinder rebuild kit soon, and will see about getting new rubber boots for the brakes, but regarding the caliper and caliper piston, can someone please take a look at these and let me know if it's salvageable? Mainly concerned with the discoloration on the outer wall, I think a soak in some brakeklean and toothbrush scrub should take care of it, but want to be sure it's nothing to be concerned with.

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Also, here are some pictures of the cylinder, how is that looking? There are some rust spots on the outer wall, and definitely rust on the inner.

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There is some small dents? Looks like someone pried on it somehow on the back of the cylinder which was there before I got there, not sure how that happened...?

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Thanks for reading!
 
Pistons are junk, pitting on the outside sealing surface. Replace them
Caliper bores? Fine grit wet/dry sandpaper to clean and polish.
The groove for the seal in the caliper has to be extremely clean, edges and corners.
Regarding the piston, thanks. I thought so, but always nice to have a second pair of eyes on it.

Will get some sandpaper for the cylinder bores, and I'll make sure to get the seal groove really clean. Thank you!
 
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