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CL350 Vintage racer project
- Thread starter Emlupi
- Start date
Well, I’m close to getting this project finished but I may end up getting sidetracked before I can get it there . I will be going in for cataract surgery next Monday and, unfortunately, I also have a torn biceps tendon that looks like it will need surgery. That one’s gonna be a long time recovery. I will do as much as I can in the meantime but once I go in for these procedures I’ll have to stop to let things heal up.
A big time bummer for me, I had a lot I wanted to do this summer. But life can be tricky sometimes so, this is what it is.
A big time bummer for me, I had a lot I wanted to do this summer. But life can be tricky sometimes so, this is what it is.
Cataract surgery is a walk in the park. Mine were done 30 years ago, out patient stuff.
Tendon surgery is going to be a tougher one, take care, follow directions and I'm sure it will be fine.
Yeah, the timing isn't great. Someone once said "youth is wasted on the young".
Man, ain’t that the truth.
I found some NGK D8ES spark plugs so I’m all set with that.
I got the rear wheel installed and a few other items done but I think that’s going to be it for a while. Going for procedures this week and probably won’t be able to do anything more for a couple of months. I guess I will open the thread again once I get back after it.
Safe rides, everyone. Have a great summer. I’ll be lurking about.
I got the rear wheel installed and a few other items done but I think that’s going to be it for a while. Going for procedures this week and probably won’t be able to do anything more for a couple of months. I guess I will open the thread again once I get back after it.
Safe rides, everyone. Have a great summer. I’ll be lurking about.
RobMan
Veteran Member
Best wishes on a successful surgery and a quick recovery. Can't wait to see this machine on the track.
Thanks, that makes two of us
Just wanted to give a shout out to Motobits. Their vintage rearsets for Honda twins are fantastic. Well designed, nicely manufactured, infinitely adjustable. If you’re looking for rearsets for your vintage Honda twin project, shop with confidence.
The quality is obvious, but the only thing that wouldn't fit for my needs is the footpegs are rigid.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Like the look of that beefy rear brake rod, if there is enough adjustment, I'd consider backing up the arm a spline on the cam to get a closer to 90 degree angle at the rod to arm. Better leverage.
That’s the best position I can get due to the gap in the splines. I don’t mind not having a really strong rear brake. With all the weight on the front under hard braking it tends to lock up.
I received this throttle control from Cafe Racer Garage. The cable pulley has multiple positions all around its circumference. I’m hoping that this combined with the bike’s cable adjustments will allow me to find a “sweet spot” and negate the need to fabricate custom length throttle cables.
That's a cool throttle
I have been looking around at any and all available options. That one looks like it might solve my issue without having to cut up and re-do the cables. We shall see how it goes (eventually).
Well, I’m out of the splint and bandages. Now I’m locked in the robocop brace for about 12 weeks. At least I can take this contraption off my arm and get some relief for a while. Gotta start PT this week to get some strength and range of motion back.
No riding this summer, so I’ll be jonesing like a fiend. Looking forward to better days ahead.
On a positive note, my cataract surgery went very well and so now I can see again.
The summer of surgeries I guess, glad that went well.
And congrats on the cataract surgery, I'm next. Hope mine goes as well as yours.
There’s really nothing to it. You’ll be surprised how well you can see after it’s done. I never realized how terrible my eyesight was until I had it fixed.
I only had my right eye done for now. It was far worse than the left for whatever reason. Once it was done I could see how bad the left eye is, as well. I have a contact lens in there now to even out both my eyes. The difference is amazing. Now I only need a +1 cheater to read and everything else I can do without glasses. I used to have glasses all over the house and in the car for various tasks. No longer.
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Cataracts grow so slowly in most cases that you don't notice the changes. Mine went from zero to operable in 6 months so I saw the changes.
So, I have a little more mobility now and I can tinker around with small details while I’m doing my PT.
Converted the final drive chain to 520. Installed chain, marked and safety wired the master link for quick inspection.
Then I installed the cover with clutch cable, etc. I went a little too crazy with removing material from the cover so I fabricated a small guard to protect the sprocket.
I have to say that I’m not very impressed with the aftermarket cables from 4 into 1. The throttle cable was useless and the short clutch cable is not very good, either. I had to extend the cable to almost max adjustment on both ends to get good clutch action at the lever. Seems like they didn’t get the ratio correct when shortening the sheath/cable.
Converted the final drive chain to 520. Installed chain, marked and safety wired the master link for quick inspection.
Then I installed the cover with clutch cable, etc. I went a little too crazy with removing material from the cover so I fabricated a small guard to protect the sprocket.
I have to say that I’m not very impressed with the aftermarket cables from 4 into 1. The throttle cable was useless and the short clutch cable is not very good, either. I had to extend the cable to almost max adjustment on both ends to get good clutch action at the lever. Seems like they didn’t get the ratio correct when shortening the sheath/cable.
Are you sure you have the adjustment screw in the front sprocket cover set correctly? I've bought cables from 4into1 and have never seen one with an overly long inner cable like that. Have you pulled the clutch yet to see if it works properly? If it pops and then you have a free-moving lever, it needs to be readjusted.
Yeah, I adjusted everything for a loose lever. Then I turned the push rod lifter screw CCW until I felt resistance and backed off 1/4 turn, then locked it down. Then I adjusted the cable ends for the proper play at the lever.Everything per the FSM. The steel ball is in its place.
I didn’t feel any pop that I know of. I can feel the resistance of the clutch springs I tried it with a full length Motion Pro cable and got the same result.
I didn’t feel any pop that I know of. I can feel the resistance of the clutch springs I tried it with a full length Motion Pro cable and got the same result.
That's pretty strange then. The red flag for me was seeing so much cable adjuster used at the front sprocket cover and I wondered if you started there before adjusting the mechanism. I could see one cable being that way but two cables of different brands seems odd. The lower portion of many of Honda's clutch cables is similar if not the same, so you might try another model's cable (I'm using a CL175 cable on my 900)
Thanks. This is why I try to go with OEM when possible. Too much drama with knockoffs and cheap copies. Unfortunately, no longer available.
The 4 into 1 cable didn’t even come with the tubular nut. I had to grab it from the MP cable.
The 4 into 1 cable didn’t even come with the tubular nut. I had to grab it from the MP cable.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Something seems screwy there. I bet the lifter mechanism is not right. I did put one together wrong and had a similar issue. It starts with the way the threaded screw is fitted to the threaded cam block, then the 3 ball retainer then the lever.
A give away is the slot on your screw is 90 degrees off from the 2 bikes I just looked at. My screw slots run from 2 to 8 oclock , whereas yours is from about 10 to 4 oclock. The lever that the cable hooks to, should start much lower. I have less than a locknut of space on adjusters both top and bottom.
A give away is the slot on your screw is 90 degrees off from the 2 bikes I just looked at. My screw slots run from 2 to 8 oclock , whereas yours is from about 10 to 4 oclock. The lever that the cable hooks to, should start much lower. I have less than a locknut of space on adjusters both top and bottom.
Something seems screwy there. I bet the lifter mechanism is not right. I did put one together wrong and had a similar issue. It starts with the way the threaded screw is fitted to the threaded cam block, then the 3 ball retainer then the lever.
Where should I be looking for the fix?
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Have to remove the cover and dis-assemble. Hopefully Jim or someone else can describe it better than me. It's been awhile.
Yeah, I figured. I packed that damn thing full of grease, too.
Take pictures and I'll compare against the cover I have handy.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
If the clutch lifter joint, under the pressure plate got left out, that would do it.
This is a view of the approximate angle of the lifter arm with the cable adjustment minimized
Here are pictures of my clutch actuator assembly. In the top picture, the plate with the three balls has been removed.
The angles of all the associated parts looks pretty much the same as AD’s photo by my eyes.
The angles of all the associated parts looks pretty much the same as AD’s photo by my eyes.
Everything looks correct.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Loosen that adjuster barrel all the way down before you adjust the slotted adjuster screw on the cover.
Manual says slotted screw is turned clockwise until resistance is felt. You had CCW in post #477.
Manual says slotted screw is turned clockwise until resistance is felt. You had CCW in post #477.
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Yes, in my post I mentioned that I had made the cable slack before turning the clutch adjustment.
My manual says to turn the adjustment screw CCW until resistance is felt.
If you look at the mechanism, turning the adjustment screw (8) CCW will move part (9) inwards. This will move the cam assembly closer to the push rod which eliminates the slop in the clutch adjustment. Then back off a quarter turn so the steel ball is not always pressed against the push rod.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Apologies for my mistake and confusion. K4 owner's manual, I grabbed, only pictured a clockwise arrow and I mis-read the text. 
Not helpful.
Not helpful.Installed the Hindle 2-1 exhaust. It fit up nicely and looks pretty good on the bike. One caveat, I wasn’t really too impressed with the spigots provided with the exhaust. While trying to torque them down adequately to seal the copper exhaust gaskets the flanges began to bend with only about 10-11 ft lbs (8mm studs). Not very stout.
Bubble, toil, and trouble……
Began prepping the bike for startup and realized both carbs were pissing gas from the overflow tubes. Removed the bowls, filled them, and both are leaking. Apparently the brass overflow tubes are leaking. I will post a separate thread about this.
Just for good measure, and to avoid further problems, I tested both of the float assemblies to make sure that they are also not leaking. Both floated ok in a small container of gasoline without issue. Back to the drawing board….
ETA: I just reviewed a thread on overflow tube repair in the 350 forum. Looks like I will be firing up the soldering iron and trying to seal these tubes up.
Began prepping the bike for startup and realized both carbs were pissing gas from the overflow tubes. Removed the bowls, filled them, and both are leaking. Apparently the brass overflow tubes are leaking. I will post a separate thread about this.
Just for good measure, and to avoid further problems, I tested both of the float assemblies to make sure that they are also not leaking. Both floated ok in a small container of gasoline without issue. Back to the drawing board….
ETA: I just reviewed a thread on overflow tube repair in the 350 forum. Looks like I will be firing up the soldering iron and trying to seal these tubes up.
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Well, very bad news for my project.
I started the bike today. Got a couple of kick backs while trying to kick it over but it started up and I was thrilled……..for about 45 seconds.
As I was fiddling with the idle screws trying to get it steady I suddenly heard a ticking sound and smoke coming from the right side exhaust port. Then I saw oil dripping down the left side of the engine. I hit the kill switch but I fear that the damage is already done.
Here’s a couple of photos of the aftermath. Look like oil is leaking out from behind the timing side head cover. I’m afraid that I probably cooked the top end.
All that work down the #*@!*# drain, that’s the real heartbreaker. Don’t know if I have the willpower to start all over again. Gotta give it some time and thought.
Anyway, thanks everyone for helping me out when I needed it. Much appreciated.
I started the bike today. Got a couple of kick backs while trying to kick it over but it started up and I was thrilled……..for about 45 seconds.
As I was fiddling with the idle screws trying to get it steady I suddenly heard a ticking sound and smoke coming from the right side exhaust port. Then I saw oil dripping down the left side of the engine. I hit the kill switch but I fear that the damage is already done
.Here’s a couple of photos of the aftermath. Look like oil is leaking out from behind the timing side head cover. I’m afraid that I probably cooked the top end.
All that work down the #*@!*# drain, that’s the real heartbreaker. Don’t know if I have the willpower to start all over again. Gotta give it some time and thought.
Anyway, thanks everyone for helping me out when I needed it. Much appreciated.
That's the bike's left side. Looks like it isn't coming from inside the cam bearing cover (from the seal) so if it's what I think it is then all you have to do is properly position the crankshaft/camshaft for the effort and then remove the left cam bearing cover and flip the gasket over. Looks like the gasket is backwards, typical oil leak if it is.
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IDK, I opened the valve adjustment caps and they were all dry. I would think that after the engine had run there should be oil splashed around in there, no?
Also I heard very distinct ticking and saw smoke from the right side exhaust port. If it ran dry I would imagine the cam lobes and rocker pads are probably burnt. At the very least wouldn’t I need to pull the engine out and inspect this?
Also I heard very distinct ticking and saw smoke from the right side exhaust port. If it ran dry I would imagine the cam lobes and rocker pads are probably burnt. At the very least wouldn’t I need to pull the engine out and inspect this?
But first, just how long did it actually run? 30 seconds? 2 minutes? You didn't say, and if it was only 30 seconds or so and oil started flowing out of the left cam bearing cover, that tells me oil is up there. If you don't rev the engine a little bit it doesn't usually go flying out of an open valve cover right away, it takes a bit for that much oil to start moving around in the cam box.
Start with the simple stuff, don't be anywhere near discouraged yet. Turn the engine to 90° past LT on compression stroke, loosen the valve adjuster lock nuts and rotate the adjuster shafts to the loosest position, then remove the left cam bearing cover and see what you see before throwing in the towel.
it’s kind of a blur as to the exact amount of time that the engine ran. I was more focused on trying to get the idle to run smoothly at about 1200 rpm. I probably blipped the throttle once or twice to check that it would return to idle. All told, maybe 1-1/2 to 2 minutes.
I didn’t see the oil at first as I was on the other side of the bike. Once I heard the ticking and saw the smoke I went to hit the kill switch on the left side and then I saw the oil.
ETA: I was aware of the fact that the left side cam box cover gasket needed to be oriented correctly to avoid covering the oil hole there. I am fairly certain I positioned it correctly but who knows?
I didn’t see the oil at first as I was on the other side of the bike. Once I heard the ticking and saw the smoke I went to hit the kill switch on the left side and then I saw the oil.
ETA: I was aware of the fact that the left side cam box cover gasket needed to be oriented correctly to avoid covering the oil hole there. I am fairly certain I positioned it correctly but who knows?
During assembly I noticed you lubed things up pretty good with assembly lube IIRC, so hopefully things survived. These engines have blown out clutch rod seals and left big puddles behind them and have still survived if not run too long afterward. Start with the easy stuff, wait until (IF) you see something worth gnashing teeth over. Remember, I went through this while actually riding my 450 because of the oil filter valve, and this was the worst that happened in over 60 miles of trial and error.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Oil is getting up high enough to leak. Warm weather makes for easier wash off to pin point on outside.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
After a wash. Pull plugs and spin motor with a socket and electric drill. Remove 6mm oil inspection bolt from near the left cam bearing. Oil will pulse up a clear tube stuck in hole about an inch for every clutch basket rotation.