1965 CA95

A very cool pic for sure. Love the background gentleman shouldering another item of vintage noisy machinery with a classic scope mounted. American tradition at it's finest. Glad to hear the son is stoked, not woked.
 
Looks like a mild winter day. Got the bike out of the shed to warm up the engine. Granddad sitting on the bike. Maybe Great Uncle standing beside the 65 Ford Galaxy with his Marlin semi auto & scope, likely focused on a ground hog or rabbit. I wish pictures could be time portals.
 
Hello been a bit, started cleaning gaskets on head and piston side can actually feel a low spot,(also put a piece of flat stock and can see thru it and head in that area) I believe someone may have been here before, I know cars and heavy equipment head had to be perfect to hold compression also could only remove so much material to make flat.
Gasket area is supposed to be raised.
One area it was not. Showed it to a machine shop and he said complete raised area will be gone.
Has any had head work done and will she run or will pistons hit valves.
At work no pictures
 
Gman said:
Hello been a bit, started cleaning gaskets on head and piston side can actually feel a low spot,(also put a piece of flat stock and can see thru it and head in that area) I believe someone may have been here before, I know cars and heavy equipment head had to be perfect to hold compression also could only remove so much material to make flat.
Gasket area is supposed to be raised.
One area it was not. Showed it to a machine shop and he said complete raised area will be gone.
Has any had head work done and will she run or will pistons hit valves.
At work no pictures
Click to expand...
It will depend on the amount of material removed, do you know a measurement of what has been or will be removed?
 
Gman said:
Hello been a bit, started cleaning gaskets on head and piston side can actually feel a low spot,(also put a piece of flat stock and can see thru it and head in that area) I believe someone may have been here before, I know cars and heavy equipment head had to be perfect to hold compression also could only remove so much material to make flat.
Gasket area is supposed to be raised.
One area it was not. Showed it to a machine shop and he said complete raised area will be gone.
Has any had head work done and will she run or will pistons hit valves.
At work no pictures
Click to expand...
Was this an automotive machinist? They like to sell a 'deck' job, but I think it is usually not needed or even a good idea. I prefer to deal with a powersports machinist, who is very familiar with small displacement motor like motorcycles. If they don't have a boring bar small enough for to do 49mm bores then stop with them right there. Others will hopefully chime in here, but warpage on a small twin head is not very common.
I surface sand my heads on a piece of plate glass with a sheet of 400 grit sandpaper in a figure 8 pattern. You can then see if there is any low spots within a 1/4" of the fire ring sealing area, the rest doesn't matter as much since Orings are used for oil passage studs and the cam chain tunnel sealing.

How are your valves and seats? And rings and cylinder bores. These are usually the most common areas needing attention. Any info assessing the condition prior to tear down could be useful. Mileage, compression, leakdown?
 
Yes automotive machine shop, the low spot is out by stud hole, so definitely 1/4 or better from sealing ring. Since it since 1977 was afraid to spin her over alot not know what was going on inside. I also added oil to cylinders. Then spun her over. Old school added 70 psi to one cylinder at a time and it held. With head off valves closed I use water let sit for approximately 24 hours did not leak at all. I used gasket remover and razor scraper to remove gasket so believe it was like that already. Rings look great, bike has 8000 miles. Lots of carbon build up tops of pistons but cleaned pretty easy. Cyl walls look in great shape.
Thank you responding

Gman
 
Sounds great. With no signs of leaking or very low compression, it may have been able to run, no? I'm trying to figure what prompted you to go straight to a teardown. If the pistons and cylinders are within factory specs then maybe just a hone and a new set of rings will do it. Or, if compression was decent, might even justify skipping removal of pistons and just decarbon the head, maybe a light lap of valves and just run that low miles, non abused motor.
Have you cleaned and inspected the centrifugal oil filter? Oil level is checked without screwing in the dip stick, it's in the owner's manual and worth reading it all.
These motors are durable and reliable if cared for properly, especially oil service and level, by the book. Cam chain tension and tappet clearances too.
I use gas to fill the intake ports and then the exhausts for a leakage test. Gas is thinner and will seek a leak better than water, plus it helps to dissolve carbon deposits too.
So many of these old Benlys have been abused and neglected, yours looks pretty nice and you are possibly fortunate not to need extensive and expensive replacement and machining.
You should message the admins to get access to our library copy of the factory service manual for specs and your machinist can help measure the bores and clearances, if you still think it needs rebuilding.
When you're ready there is a modern battery replacement, much cheaper and better than the original acid fill type.
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As I stated previously my valves passed a fluid test, but as I read it appears I am lucky as I have read you cannot and should not lapp the valves. I have done that often on bigger engines(car, pick up, forklifts) not crazy just a quick clean of surface face. I have read just get new valves, there is no guarantee that they will seal.
Just curious what do you do then?
 
I understand your question. You read the professional explanation about Honda valves.
The surface hardening will be destroyed by lapping, so a professional job is done with new valves, fresh cut seats and that's it.

I have decarbonized heads, lapped valves to seats and simply accepted that this will not yield the higher mileage of a professional job but my bikes are not candidates for 'spare no expense' type repairs, most of the time. If there is no pitting and no cupping of the valve faces then I will opt for this economy route.
IOW, if the valves look like facing is needed, just buy new, if possible.
Yours are sealing, so clean them up and be happy. There is a width limit of the contact surface in the FSM to give you an idea. 2.00mm max width.
 
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Thank you for explanation, I did get fsm from forum. I don't plan on doing mine as they are sealing. I did soak them and clean carbon off them, and I do not have a money tree so yes anything reusable is reused.
 
Gman said:
Thank you for explanation, I did get fsm from forum. I don't plan on doing mine as they are sealing. I did soak them and clean carbon off them, and I do not have a money tree so yes anything reusable is reused.
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Our highly experienced veteran members are always right and I'm really just a novice rebuilder so weigh carefully all advice. I do remove the valves for deeper cleaning and to inspect the springs. A good opportunity to get some good close pics of the seats and valve faces.
 
So never really looked at pistons close, new they were rough on front edge. Closer look they look like they were hitting head or valves but that has no marks. Top ring crushed does not move20250123_190029.jpg
 
If there was hitting the valves would not close, they bend easy, so I kind of doubt that. Plenty of rust. probably needs a rebore and new OS pistons. I don't bang the wrist pins out. You can squeeze them with piece of all thread and a smaller thin deep socket. Hopefully the small end rod bushings are ok. After a soak to remove rings the piston to bore clearances can be checked. Specs are in the FSM.
 
Ballbearian thank you for your answers, I removed pistons soaked them then proceeded to try and remove rings, soaked them in a gallon jug if chemical(carb cleaner) I believe just stuck from crap. So need new rings and hone tool. Is any supplier better for hone tool(size?).
Also purchased a gasket and seal kit.
Need breather sheild gasket. See one from nipponmoto, anyone purchase from them?
Last question at moment, found original honda rings nos should I not go that route as nos gaskets usually brittle but figure rings as long as sealed and dry should be good
 
I wouldn't buy rings until you know if it needs a rebore. It may need pistons anyway. Yes, NOS Honda rings are great. I shop amazon for flex hones and they are handy just to clean up bores for further inspection. Do you have a local powersports shop that does boring? They should look at your pistons and bores to make a recommendation on what is needed. We can talk piston kits later, if needed.
Honda head gaskets would be my choice but aftermarket will work. Nippon moto are cheap but take long on shipping.
 
So brought cylinder and pistons to a vintage motorcycle machine shop, he measured up pistons and cylinders. Said pistons can be used, but since apart if available replace. He also says walls in great shape i can get away with standard pistons and rings.
I see 2 different #s in fsm for pistons. Just last 3 #s.
Whats the difference? What I believe it goes by engine serial # mine starts with 501 so guessing need the 13101-206-010
Any help with this would be greatly appreciated
 
Gman said:
So brought cylinder and pistons to a vintage motorcycle machine shop, he measured up pistons and cylinders. Said pistons can be used, but since apart if available replace. He also says walls in great shape i can get away with standard pistons and rings.
I see 2 different #s in fsm for pistons. Just last 3 #s.
Whats the difference? What I believe it goes by engine serial # mine starts with 501 so guessing need the 13101-206-010
Any help with this would be greatly appreciated
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What are the 3 part numbers? For anything else in the engine world the last 3 digits would be the size (000,010,020) Over bore.
 
FWIW - this is what I see in my illustrated parts guide.
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OK - self answer. Just 3 revisions of same part
Part # = 13011-030-000 Part Description = RING SET (STD) - (replaces 13011-201-000, 13010-201-000)
 
So I have a 1965 benly ca95 150
Looking for standard pistons, in factory service manual they list 2 part #s for standard. Is there a difference between them.
13101-206-000 and 03101-206-010
 
Gman said:
So I have a 1965 benly ca95 150
Looking for standard pistons, in factory service manual they list 2 part #s for standard. Is there a difference between them.
13101-206-000 and 13101-206-010
Click to expand...
13101-206-010 is second #
 
OK - I thought you were keeping pistons and just replacing the rings.

Honda OEM PISTON | Use from Engine SN 2100001 to 4019732 | 13101-206-000​

HONDA OEM PISTON USE FROM ENGINE SN 4019733 TO 5019831 | 13101-206-010​

 
When all else fails, just look at partzilla. Personally I would reuse what you had with new rings before paying $150 a piece for new ones
 
So machine shop honed cylinders for 20.00 gave a little more as tool would have cost more.
Got 2 pistons for 60. Ea so bought them, got rings. Now tearing further into motor as lots of gunk inside and just want new seals and gaskets. Besides that work and life slowing down progress. I really thought by now would have engine cleaned, and back together. Oh yea money is also slowing down hiw fast things happen. Happy I did decide to tear engine down as frozen piston rings more than likely would have pushed me to that anyway20250204_184600.jpg20250127_174043.jpg
 
How did you get that all so shiny? I was feeling pretty good about getting all the gunk off my engine, but that is like a mirror.
 
The top mount and valve adjustment caps are buffed out, the rest was soda blasted and painted
 
Put rings in without pistons gap was perfect according to factory service manual. I had them at machine shop when I picked up cylinder and from machine shop he checked ring gap and new piston separate and said awesome
 
I know that I am not even close to this point yet, has anyone converted from points to electronic? I see for the dreamb305 bit not benly. Also if there is a set up is it still 6 volt

Thanks in advance
 
I'm not aware of a 6volt EI that would work, but it has been a while since I hung out at John Pardue's FB group "Honda 6volt".
You can't really do a 12volt ignition on a 6volt bike without a total conversion which is extensive, expensive and not worth it, IMO.
A single point Benly with a 360 crank is about as simple as it gets. The essential info in the little owner's manual is where you start. Then, you have us here, as well.

Pretty sure we have owners manual in our library if needed. Required reading, IMO.
 
Cool I will have to look at there site, thank you
 
So flipped block over to clean and found this!!! Is it in the molding or do I have a cracked block?20250222_190552.jpg
 
Looks cracked to me. Can you get your fingernail in the "crack". It it is a mold line then it should just be raised from both sides
 
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Since I have an engine sitting in my office - flipped it over. I do see a faint line on mine in the same spot
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Ouch. Looks cracked. Put an eye dropper of light fluid like a solvent directly into the crack. If the fluid drains into the opening, then you have a crack.

I just happen to have a pretty nice 1963 CA95 engine lower engine case with a good drain plug in my parts pile headed to the recycler. If you need it.
 
I didn't think of putting fluid on it and see if it leaks, was going to get a borescope and look at inside of case.
Will do fluid late Sunday when I get home and see. Will let you all know.
Spokes I may need it will also let you know. Thank you
 
Well cleaned up crack/molding mark put some oil on it walked away came back still there, next have cylinder off so put bright light shining into block in darkness and could not see any light coming thru. Next tried borescope did not fit great around metal sheild but could not see anything or enough.
Going to change seals and start putting back together.
I believe it to be just molding marks.
 
Gman said:
Well cleaned up crack/molding mark put some oil on it walked away came back still there, next have cylinder off so put bright light shining into block in darkness and could not see any light coming thru. Next tried borescope did not fit great around metal sheild but could not see anything or enough.
Going to change seals and start putting back together.
I believe it to be just molding marks.
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Use gasolene to check leaks in possible cracks or head valve seat sealing. It's thinner and will penetrate better.
 
So we continue with going thru everything, now cleaning and measuring clutch disk and plates.
So far disks look good, but according to fsm plate B should be around 3. mm plate A 1.6 mm. - 1.4
Well all plate A measuring 1.56 - 1.59
But plate B is 1.72. Fsm 3.0 - 2.7.
I cannot believe everything else measured good but this on plate
 
Plate "B" is aluminum. Plate "A" is soft steel. I have two new extra plate "B" in my recycle box and one new (old stock) plate "A".
See pics. I would be happy to send off one plate "B" and the remaining plate "A" should you want them. IMG_5002.JPGIMG_5003.JPG
 
Hello me again
In process of getting clutch assembly back in. I thought I was doing great at tagging and bagging parts.
I remember removing washer #13 between inner and outer basket.
Tore apart work area and storage shelves no luck finding.
So I ordered one, now going to put together(no other parts there replaced)
And with #13 installed cannot install clip #10 to hold baskets on.
Tried watching videos and don't even see people installing washer?
 
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