As anyone who has opened up their gauges removing the chrome ring and re-installing it is a pain. Lots of less than optimal results. Removal advice ranges from cutting it off to using a paint can openers to pry it apart. I've read I think every version out there. Re-installing the ring ranges from gluing it in place with super glue or JB Weld to crushing it back in shape carefully with pliers.
First problem with working on a gauge is it's difficult to hold on to while working. Solution? 3 inch black ABS pipe coupling. Simply use your Dremel and grind the first inch or so back enough that the gauge just drops into it. The one in the picture is from Lowes. For the speedo you will need to cut a slot to clear the trip meter knob and shaft. Do the tach first.
Note that the ends of the coupler are different, use the end without the raised lettering. You'll know why further on.
Next, gather the tools need to do the job.
Missing in the picture is a small straight blade screwdriver.
Set the gauge into the holder and with the straight blade screw driver or the small scraper catch the edge of the ring and pry it up a little, you can't get much and the tool will pop off so wear a glove to keep from poking yourself. I used the bent one on one gauge and a regular one on the second with similar results.
Once you've gone all the way around change to the small straight blade and push it inside the ring so you catch the edge of the gauge back plate. Work it back and forth and pry out to gently bend the ring up more, work completely around the gauge. Now switch to the regular screwdriver and repeat the process prying out a little more each time to get enough clearance of the ring to the gauge back plate. I went around 4 times to get to the point I could push the ring down over the housing, had to pry slightly.
The key thing here is IF you pry too much you leave a dent which may not be able to be corrected or hidden.
Once the ring is down use the razor knife to insert between the gasket and the back plate, not the inner housing. You may be able to go completely around or you may only get a little bit. Insert the small screwdriver and twist to pop the plate loose from the gasket. It may stick so be careful not to tear the rubber!
Now you can take apart the tach/speedo and do whatever you desire. I removed the glass from it's gasket to clean the edges real good, note that the glass is convex so be sure it's installed correctly. I also replaced the gauge decals, zero'd the odometer, cleaned and grease all the gears with a lite grease used for garage door rollers. Do not use any type of heavy grease, the gears are tiny and the plastic ones will strip in a heartbeat.
I don't have any solution for cleaning the odometer numbers BUT I do know that carb and brake clean wipe them out so don't use those.
To free up the normal after 50 years or so sticking/sluggish tach and speedo you want to lube the drive bushing area. This point right here. Also lube the needle bushing to get it freed up.
I use this stuff for cable lube and it worked really well on the bushing. Found it in a RC car store.
Spray it in to make a little puddle and spin the drive using the end of an old cable or the small screwdriver. do this until you see the oil start to come out the cable side. As you do it you may encounter a stiff spot suddenly, that's dirt. Turn the opposite direction a little and then back again, that should free it up. Keep the oil puddle full, it drains into the bushing. After a few minutes you'll notice how free the drive spins, like it should.
NOTE: the speedo can be wound backwards to reduce the mileage so if your'e doing this try to zero the odometer first then after getting a couple of tenths added by the spinning go backwards to remove it. I won't suggest using a drill to reset the odometer, it'll probably damage the gears. (this is probably why my trip odometer quit right away.)
While paint dries if you painted the housing you can move onto the ring. The bend you snuck the gauge past isn't going to work for assembly. The ring edge needs to be straightened. So use the flat grip pliers for this.
Just insert the ring fully to the jaw, squeeze, move the width of the jaw and repeat until you gone all the way around. Jaws are not serrated so they leave no marks.
Now that you've got everything done you wish it reassembly time and the fun begins.
First and foremost wipe all the dust out of the unit, both inner and outer housings and anything else you can think of. Use air pressure to blow it clean if you have it. Next put a piece of tape over the light holes to keep anything from entering while continuing. Then wipe a light coat of Vaseline onto the gasket. Work in as dust free an area as possible.
Slide the ring onto the housing and over the gasket on the inner housing and insert the gauge backing plate into the ring.
First problem with working on a gauge is it's difficult to hold on to while working. Solution? 3 inch black ABS pipe coupling. Simply use your Dremel and grind the first inch or so back enough that the gauge just drops into it. The one in the picture is from Lowes. For the speedo you will need to cut a slot to clear the trip meter knob and shaft. Do the tach first.
Note that the ends of the coupler are different, use the end without the raised lettering. You'll know why further on.
Next, gather the tools need to do the job.
Missing in the picture is a small straight blade screwdriver.
Set the gauge into the holder and with the straight blade screw driver or the small scraper catch the edge of the ring and pry it up a little, you can't get much and the tool will pop off so wear a glove to keep from poking yourself. I used the bent one on one gauge and a regular one on the second with similar results.
Once you've gone all the way around change to the small straight blade and push it inside the ring so you catch the edge of the gauge back plate. Work it back and forth and pry out to gently bend the ring up more, work completely around the gauge. Now switch to the regular screwdriver and repeat the process prying out a little more each time to get enough clearance of the ring to the gauge back plate. I went around 4 times to get to the point I could push the ring down over the housing, had to pry slightly.
The key thing here is IF you pry too much you leave a dent which may not be able to be corrected or hidden.
Once the ring is down use the razor knife to insert between the gasket and the back plate, not the inner housing. You may be able to go completely around or you may only get a little bit. Insert the small screwdriver and twist to pop the plate loose from the gasket. It may stick so be careful not to tear the rubber!
Now you can take apart the tach/speedo and do whatever you desire. I removed the glass from it's gasket to clean the edges real good, note that the glass is convex so be sure it's installed correctly. I also replaced the gauge decals, zero'd the odometer, cleaned and grease all the gears with a lite grease used for garage door rollers. Do not use any type of heavy grease, the gears are tiny and the plastic ones will strip in a heartbeat.
I don't have any solution for cleaning the odometer numbers BUT I do know that carb and brake clean wipe them out so don't use those.
To free up the normal after 50 years or so sticking/sluggish tach and speedo you want to lube the drive bushing area. This point right here. Also lube the needle bushing to get it freed up.
I use this stuff for cable lube and it worked really well on the bushing. Found it in a RC car store.
Spray it in to make a little puddle and spin the drive using the end of an old cable or the small screwdriver. do this until you see the oil start to come out the cable side. As you do it you may encounter a stiff spot suddenly, that's dirt. Turn the opposite direction a little and then back again, that should free it up. Keep the oil puddle full, it drains into the bushing. After a few minutes you'll notice how free the drive spins, like it should.
NOTE: the speedo can be wound backwards to reduce the mileage so if your'e doing this try to zero the odometer first then after getting a couple of tenths added by the spinning go backwards to remove it. I won't suggest using a drill to reset the odometer, it'll probably damage the gears. (this is probably why my trip odometer quit right away.)
While paint dries if you painted the housing you can move onto the ring. The bend you snuck the gauge past isn't going to work for assembly. The ring edge needs to be straightened. So use the flat grip pliers for this.
Just insert the ring fully to the jaw, squeeze, move the width of the jaw and repeat until you gone all the way around. Jaws are not serrated so they leave no marks.
Now that you've got everything done you wish it reassembly time and the fun begins.
First and foremost wipe all the dust out of the unit, both inner and outer housings and anything else you can think of. Use air pressure to blow it clean if you have it. Next put a piece of tape over the light holes to keep anything from entering while continuing. Then wipe a light coat of Vaseline onto the gasket. Work in as dust free an area as possible.
Slide the ring onto the housing and over the gasket on the inner housing and insert the gauge backing plate into the ring.
