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Engine paint color match?

briandel

briandel

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2020
Total Posts
753
Total likes
16
Location
Kansas City, MO, USA
I've decided that my starter is too ugly. I rebuilt my starter clutch tonight and figured if I'm going to repaint the starter, now's the time.

I haven't repainted the engine/case so I'm hoping that someone knows a brand/color that matches 50 year old "Honda engine silver" fairly close because I don't want the starter to stick out like a sore thumb.

If not, I'll probably resort to buying a few different things and doing some spray tests for comparison. (I'd rather not do that though.)

The silver used is pretty "warm" it seems and the "flake" is super fine... Most silvers I remember spraying have too mutch of a pronounced flake to come close to a match.

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I can't remember the brand, but the color name was "Cast Aluminum". I got it at Advance Auto Parts. Actually, I am wanting some too, but there are no Advance stores near me. Here is a picture of a CB77 painted with this paint.

DSC06105.jpg
 
Snapped this from a Facebook group awhile ago:

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Dupli-Color BCP103 (900 Degree)

VHT Caliper BC103 Gloss Clear coat

I kept this for a later reference.


Ed
1972 Honda CL350
 
Ran to Advance and picked up a few candidates. The middle Dupli-Color Caliper Paint isn't, I don't think, the same as Ed mentioned but it's all they had (the exact is available online if none of these work out). The Dupli-Color Engine paint on the right's color name is "Cast Aluminum" so that may be a match for the other mentioned but, if I can trust the cap color (of course I can't), it may actually be too "warm". Spray outs to come...

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Today I've been using some of that Dupli-Color Engine paint on the right. It dries a lot different than it looks when wet. I'm not going for a Concours d'Elegance 100 point bike, so being perfect doesn't matter too much to me, but actually it looks pretty good.
 
Fifty5 said:
Today I've been using some of that Dupli-Color Engine paint on the right. It dries a lot different than it looks when wet. I'm not going for a Concours d'Elegance 100 point bike, so being perfect doesn't matter too much to me, but actually it looks pretty good.
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Nope, I'm not going for that either. Just want something that looks good and doesn't stick out againt the OEM painted engine too much (preferably not at all). Priming up a piece of plywood now to do some comparisons...
 
I agree. You don't suppose he switched them around just to trick us do you? Left looks to be the same color as the pictures of the starter. That's header paint and could be used on the cooling fins without a problem.
 
Sorry for the lack of updates; I was out of town. I know everyone was on the edge of their seats ;)

For the record, I think I'm actually going to go with the Dupli-Color Caliper Paint (center swatch). It's hard to see in pictures but I think, in person, it's the best match. The DC engine paint is too dark and the VHT header paint doesn't seem to match the reflectivity of the original and, also hard to see in the pics, has a bit of a flake that's not present in OEM.

The caliper paint has what seems to be a matching shine, no flake, and close enough color in all light and at all angles that I think it will blend in the best. At least as can be expected with a freshly painted part against a 50 yr old example.

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I did mine this week, so here is an example of what it might look like. The cases are DupliColor 500* Engine Paint. Everything above the cases (cooling fins etc.) is VHT 2000* Header Paint. It is very difficult to see any difference in the pictures, but the header paint is more like freshly cast aluminum, while the Engine paint has a bit smoother finish that is not quite glossy. I don't understand why the alternator cover looks so dull, because it is polished to a near-chrome shine, as seen by the bevel on the outside edge of it. In fact, the chrome points cover looks the same way. I guess it is a good thing I am not depending on my photography skills to put food on my table.

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Looks pretty great. I think any of these, as long as they can take the temp and are resistant enough to fluids, would look great if you were doing everything at the same time.
 
briandel said:
Looks pretty great. I think any of these, as long as they can take the temp and are resistant enough to fluids, would look great if you were doing everything at the same time.
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Exactly. It’s why I’m sending out all of the pieces of my CL that get the candy panther gold treatment out at the same time.

Consistency is the most important part.


Ed
1972 Honda CL350
 
Fifty5 said:
I did mine this week, so here is an example of what it might look like. The cases are DupliColor 500* Engine Paint. Everything above the cases (cooling fins etc.) is VHT 2000* Header Paint. It is very difficult to see any difference in the pictures, but the header paint is more like freshly cast aluminum, while the Engine paint has a bit smoother finish that is not quite glossy. I don't understand why the alternator cover looks so dull, because it is polished to a near-chrome shine, as seen by the bevel on the outside edge of it. In fact, the chrome points cover looks the same way. I guess it is a good thing I am not depending on my photography skills to put food on my table.

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Nothing to do with your skills as a photographer, it's the digital camera default settings. The polished cover is being read as close to the reflective light of the case so the camera is adjusting to make them the same, being in bright sunlight is making it worse
 
The old stand-by, for years, for Honda engine cases has been Duplicolor Aluminum Engine Enamel DE 1615. I've used it, and thought it was pretty close. They also have a (newer, I think) Cast Coat Aluminum Engine Enamel DE 1650. Looks like the Cast Coat Aluminum is darker than the Silver Caliper Paint (BCP103).

The original Honda silver engine paint wasn't clear coated, or a very high gloss, so I wouldn't clear it if you want it to look original.

As with most metallics, spraying "wet" will produce a darker finish than spraying "dry" - so your application technique will also alter the tone of the finish.
 
jkv45 said:
The old stand-by, for years, for Honda engine cases has been Duplicolor Aluminum Engine Enamel DE 1615. I've used it, and thought it was pretty close. They also have a (newer, I think) Cast Coat Aluminum Engine Enamel DE 1650. Looks like the Cast Coat Aluminum is darker than the Silver Caliper Paint (BCP103).

The original Honda silver engine paint wasn't clear coated, or a very high gloss, so I wouldn't clear it if you want it to look original.

As with most metallics, spraying "wet" will produce a darker finish than spraying "dry" - so your application technique will also alter the tone of the finish.
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Those are the exact two Dupli-Color products I sprayed out: BCP103 "Caliper Silver" and DE1650 "Cast Coat Aluminum" (middle and right swatches respectively). I'm pretty confident the BCP103 will blend in pretty well with the untouched engine.
 
I use the Duplicolor DE1615 high heat silver for painting engine cases.
As far as I can discern it's an almost dead match for the silver Honda used on their cases in the '70's.
I've done four of my bikes engines with it and so far it's holding up very well.
Of course it's very important to have the cases clean clean clean prior to application.
I use it without any primer.
Of course I was repainting the entire case, I wasn't trying to match existing paint.
 
I will be holding a "Coolest Bike" awards ceremony in my basement this weekend. My bike is a front-runner and, frankly, the only entrant at this point. If it wins, that's at least $2k right there.
 
On a serious note, I think if/when I get to stripping this down and actually painting the engine before I die, the Dupli-Color Caliper Paint BCP103 is what I'd use.
 
Fifty5 said:
I can't remember the brand, but the color name was "Cast Aluminum". I got it at Advance Auto Parts. Actually, I am wanting some too, but there are no Advance stores near me. Here is a picture of a CB77 painted with this paint.

View attachment 7395
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I know this a long gone thread but was curious if you repainted the fender on this CB77 with the same paint?

I have an S90 fender and I'm looking for options

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
 
Cycleranger said:
I use the Duplicolor DE1615 high heat silver for painting engine cases.
As far as I can discern it's an almost dead match for the silver Honda used on their cases in the '70's.
I've done four of my bikes engines with it and so far it's holding up very well.
Of course it's very important to have the cases clean clean clean prior to application.
I use it without any primer.
Of course I was repainting the entire case, I wasn't trying to match existing paint.
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Same here. I use the Duplicolor engine enamel DE1615;as close to factory engine silver as it gets,imo. ;)
 
Hi All,

So, I completely disassembled my '71 cb350 engine (low compression & cam chain adjuster failure) and was wondering about what is painted, what isn't and when. It also looks like I'm trying to resurrect an old thread here and hope some of you guys are still around. Or if you know where I can go to get some of my questions answered I'd appreciate it.

Case Halves:
I'm thinking I'll paint them before assembly or assemble the halves, then paint?.... thoughts/comments/advice?
Do I have to completely remove the original factory paint or just scuff up, remove loose stuff, clean again & paint?

Clutch Cover, Stator Cover & PushRod Cover: Do I have to completely remove the original factory paint or just scuff up, remove loose stuff, clean again & paint? I plan on installing these after the engine is back in the frame.

Cylinders: I wasn't planning on painting, just bead blast & leave natural(....or clear)??

Cam cover & top cover: Are these painted? If not, should I paint them?

Cam Bearing Housing: remove clear, polish & re-clear??

Tappet covers, Fllter Cover & Alt. Cover: Polish & clearcoat??

Are youse still painting Duplicolor DE1615 without primer?

That's all I can think of, thanks for reading/responding!

Art

PS - Happy Holidays!
 
Honda only painted & cleared the cases and side covers.
The alternator, oil slinger covers and cam holders were clear coated.
On my CL350 I repainted the cases and side covers with Duplicolor with no clear.
I polished the alternator, oil slinger, and tappet covers and left them bare, no clear.
I scrubbed the rest of the top end and left it bare.
You could paint the cam case and top cover. It would probably look ok.
I wouldn't paint the head or cylinders.

I did this on my CJ360T as well and it still looks pretty good 8 years later although I seldom ride in the rain, dirt etc.
Prep is everything. Remove all the old paint/clear coat. Spray carb cleaner lifts the old paint and clear very quickly.
Make sure everything is spotless and greaseless. I use acetone to clean everything.
As far as no primer, opinions will vary, but that's how I used it and I was happy with the results.
Also make sure your painting environment isn't too hot or cold. It makes a big difference in how the paint goes down.

As a side note, I have tried clear coating some of the polished aluminum stuff but I wasn't happy with the results.
I never went back and tried again. Maybe I used the wrong clear. (Duplicolor) It might would have looked better with urethane.
I just hit the aluminum with some polish now and then.
 
Hey Cycleranger, thanks for the quick response, I appreciate it and will follow through with the advice.

What are your thoughts on painting the crancase halves....should I paint unassembled or assemble bottom end & paint?

Thanks,
Art
 
guzziart said:
Hey Cycleranger, thanks for the quick response, I appreciate it and will follow through with the advice.

What are your thoughts on painting the crancase halves....should I paint unassembled or assemble bottom end & paint?

Thanks,
Art
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O, horrors. Painted seals and fastener heads will get you a spanking. Just kidding, it's your bike.
 
That's true, I'm probably overdue there.

I do think it's much easier to paint parts on a flat table to be able to move the can around better for even coating than when it's vertical and attached to the motor.
Art did ask specifically about case halves. I've seen them painted but original is unpainted and just cleaned (wire brushes, scotch brite abrasive nylon pads or wheels and even SOS steel wool soap pads). Blasted halves sure look good as they are.
 
guzziart said:
(SNIP)
I'm thinking I'll paint them before assembly or assemble the halves, then paint?.... thoughts/comments/advice?
Do I have to completely remove the original factory paint or just scuff up, remove loose stuff, clean again & paint?
(SNIP)
Cylinders: I wasn't planning on painting, just bead blast & leave natural(....or clear)??
(SNIP)
Are youse still painting Duplicolor DE1615 without primer?

That's all I can think of, thanks for reading/responding!

Art

PS - Happy Holidays!
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If the original paint is in good condition, with good adhesion, I would not remove it. It will take less fresh paint to cover, which is a good thing. Thick paint chips easier. That goes for any part, even a gas tank, that has decent factory paint on it.

For parts that will be bare, Glass Bead blasting may be good, and Vapor Blasting would leave a nice, but slightly brighter, finish. I don't think I would clear parts like cylinders that get hot. There is always a chance the clear will yellow over time, especially with heat.

DE1615 has been good for me. I only prime if there is bare metal, and then only if it's required.
 
Great info.
This updated post happened just as I was considering how to paint the engine of my CL350 in the future.
I will probably follow Cycleranger's methods.
Question:
The clutch cover is a bit scratched here and there, especially around the kick starter shaft.
What prep do you guys recommend to address those scratched areas before painting? 1000 grit sandpaper?
I'm hoping not to have to sand down the entire cover, just the scratched areas since it will all be painted over...
 
Hi Ballbearian,
No spanking or corner time for me, whatever I paint it won't be over socket heads, acorn nuts or seal's but maybe a couple of hex head bolts. Yeah, just painting everything aint my thing. I like my stuff to look halfway decent but not show quality, they're not musuem pieces, my pockets aren't that deep, I ride them and don't enjoy cleaning after they get dirty . However, I do admire those of you that have that have the enthusiasm to do a 100 point restorations, I don't, I guess i'm slightly half-assed, idk.
 
guzziart said:
Hi Ballbearian,
No spanking or corner time for me, whatever I paint it won't be over socket heads, acorn nuts or seal's but maybe a couple of hex head bolts. Yeah, just painting everything aint my thing. I like my stuff to look halfway decent but not show quality, they're not musuem pieces, my pockets aren't that deep, I ride them and don't enjoy cleaning after they get dirty . However, I do admire those of you that have that have the enthusiasm to do a 100 point restorations, I don't, I guess i'm slightly half-assed, idk.
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There are certainly levels in between 100 point restorations and half-assed level quality, and I'm in that category. I won't relace a rim because of dull or slightly rusty spokes or to properly polish the hub, and I won't spend the money to get the upper part of the fork tubes chromed when Honda didn't, I'll just clean off the rust and paint them silver. But, I will take the time to properly clean and repaint things while apart and if the cost is reasonable, replace a few rusty or corroded parts or fasteners. Everyone has their limit on effort and dollars.
 
I spent hours and hours sanding and polishing the aluminum on my XS650 when I restored it.
Yamaha didn't clear coat anything as far as I could tell and it was pretty crusty.

I didn't spend near that time on my CL350 because yeah, it's not for show, I'm gonna ride it and from ten feet away it looks pretty nice and if I ever get the itch I can always go back and polish it up in the future.
....Like that's ever gonna happen. :rolleyes:
 
guzziart said:
Hi Ballbearian,
No spanking or corner time for me, whatever I paint it won't be over socket heads, acorn nuts or seal's but maybe a couple of hex head bolts. Yeah, just painting everything aint my thing. I like my stuff to look halfway decent but not show quality, they're not musuem pieces, my pockets aren't that deep, I ride them and don't enjoy cleaning after they get dirty . However, I do admire those of you that have that have the enthusiasm to do a 100 point restorations, I don't, I guess i'm slightly half-assed, idk.
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I'm sure you're fine. I was just remembering a parts bike I bought, I called the 'BlackHole' that had everything painted, plugs, wires, intake boots, carbs, starter and it's cable, numerous blobs of dirt in the fins. I left the whole thing soak in a covered steel tub of old gasolene for a week before brushing and power washing it off.
I'm right there with you on all you said and the achievable goal with shallow pockets, short on time, so I call my approach; Shine and Swine.
I'm doing good just to get it running right, good looks is gravy on top.
 
Hi All,

Well, I thought I had a plan of attack as far as engine paint, what to paint, etc. for my '71 cb350 after prior posts above. Since then I've vapor honed/blasted crankase halves, alt housing, sprocket cover, clutch hsg cover, cam hsg & top cover. I guess now I'm wondering about the pros & cons of leaving these items bare. Fwiw, I plan on leaving the cyls & head bare. Comments/advice appreciated!

Thanks,
Art

Of course, if I don't paint or clear them they'll oxidize ??!!:(:rolleyes:
Case2.jpgCase1.jpg
 
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For what it’s worth, I just had my CL77 motor rebuilt. It was vapor blasted but the two side covers were then painted with VHT wheel paint Argent Silver SP188 and clear coated with Spray Max 2k clear satin 368-0067. The motor is still on the bench waiting on the frame to be powder coated, but this will give you an idea of how that looks.
IMG_1221.jpeg
IMG_1219.jpegIMG_1220.jpeg
 
For what's worth, here a picture of my CB400F rebuild. Bottom case is wet blasted, top case is painted. After riding the bike for two seasons, I decided to coat (paint) every surface in the future. The wet blasted parts are difficult to keep nice, oxidation is your enemy. The upper engine case is still in perfect shape, no oxidation at all. The cylinder in the picture is NOS and is unpainted, but the next time when I use an unpainted NOS part, I'm gonna paint it anyway. The oxidation on the cylinder is just as nasty as on the lower engine case.

In the casting process, zinc is protecting the surface for a while, but as soon as the zinc layer is gone, the oxidation process starts.

If you live in dry climate, you could just wet-blast your engine, however, if there's humidity involved, I would go for a paint job.


20220522_111726.jpg
 
guzziart said:
Hi All,

Well, I thought I had a plan of attack as far as engine paint, what to paint, etc. for my '71 cb350 after prior posts above. Since then I've vapor honed/blasted crankase halves, alt housing, sprocket cover, clutch hsg cover, cam hsg & top cover. I guess now I'm wondering about the pros & cons of leaving these items bare. Fwiw, I plan on leaving the cyls & head bare. Comments/advice appreciated!

Thanks,
Art

Of course, if I don't paint or clear them they'll oxidize ??!!:(:rolleyes:
View attachment 42268View attachment 42269
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You will need something on the surface to keep the aluminum from oxidizing.

There is a product used a lot in the firearms industry called Renaissance Wax.

If I had vapor blasted parts that I wanted to keep from oxidizing, I'd put a couple coats of Renaissance Wax on them occasionally.

Another option that I use daily is a liquid Nano Coating, but it can change the color of the aluminum and is used mostly as a pre-treatment under powder coating.
 
If I had vapor blasted parts that I wanted to keep from oxidizing, I'd put a couple coats of Renaissance Wax on them occasionally.
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I tried that one as well as other coatings. Unfortunately, most of these coatings like Renaissance Wax are not heat resistant.

Next engines (CB72 and C77) will be experiments, one with paint, and the other one with ceramic coating. Our humid environment is aggressive, with salt on the roads in the winter.

If you want a good match, buy a small NOS part with the correct color, let it scan and paint.
 
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