CL350 project, imported from US to UK by DK motorcycles.

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This is a low budget revival, not a restoration really. I like to buy non-runners and get them running well enough to ride safely using minimum budget, universal parts etc. Fr brake vand clutch lever are universal £14 the pair !! Handlebar switches will be modern.View attachment 56805View attachment 56806Front bake and possibly forks?? look like later model Honda. Anybody know if thats right? front brake is working ok despite years of non use and despite my topping it up with gear oil I mistook for hydraulic fluid :oops:. I soaked the oil from top of the fluid and brake seems ok. Lots of intermittent short circuits. I replaced blade fuse with 10A circuit breaker. Even so wiring gets worryingly hot before breaker pops.

I can force 6mm brass pipe in, maybe damage carb and leak :(. Maybe I can reduce diameter with file and glue it in with epoxy or maybe wrap ptfe tape so its a good push fit? Any advice welcome.
 
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EzPete said:
Depending on your level of technical acumen and supplies, it may be best to start with this

Sparck Moto 350 harness

From the snapshot view, that existing wiring has been subjected to a level of debauchery reserved for torture.
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Thanks, I never expected new parts would be available for a bike this old, never thought to look. I have bought a new harness via ebay from China GBP 32 including delivery. Probably lower quality than the Sparck item, I will report back once its installed.
 
DavidM said:
Thanks, I never expected new parts would be available for a bike this old, never thought to look. I have bought a new harness via ebay from China GBP 32 including delivery. Probably lower quality than the Sparck item, I will report back once its installed.
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Before making any purchase for this bike, perhaps come here first and ask for recommendations since we're immersed in these things daily and many of us have already been where you're going.
 
I am trying replacement petrol infeed pipe using scrap thin steel tube and PTFE tape. I doubt this will work but its quick and cheap. Another possibility is solder, which I am a novice at but enjoy playing around with. I will test for leaks on my outdoor workbench with little dummy tank. I also bought some "replacement CL350 carbs" on Ali Express. I doubt these will work but quick and cheap. I am enjoy playing around with these things.
 
DavidM said:
View attachment 56873
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VM34 is way too big for our 350s. VM28 is the correct size.

I know you are on a budget but those carbs will not work. I would find some rebuilt original carbs or Mikuni VM28s. Yes, they will cost more, but they will also work correctly.

I will second the Sparck harness. They make exceptional products, very high quality. I ran some of their stuff on my old Ducati.

You can cheap out on price but it will likely cost you more in the long run between the product not working/failing and the headaches OR pay more and get something that is proven, works, and is reliable. Personally, I would get the essential systems working with good parts and deal with cosmetic later. I'd rather have a ratty bike that runs than a pretty bike that doesn't.

Good luck with the bike. Please ask questions here first, there are tons of helpful ppl who know what they are doing.
 
I still can't add text to picture post. I click on picture but no right arrow key, keyboard arrow not work. Never mind, "new" filters arrived today, bike had none, I don't like pod filters I doubt they will achieve the delicate balanced air flow required.
 
Maraakate said:
there is no such thing as a low budget revival with vintage bikes or any bikes for that matter.
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Magista said:
VM34 is way too big for our 350s. VM28 is the correct size.

I know you are on a budget but those carbs will not work. I would find some rebuilt original carbs or Mikuni VM28s. Yes, they will cost more, but they will also work correctly.

I will second the Sparck harness. They make exceptional products, very high quality. I ran some of their stuff on my old Ducati.

You can cheap out on price but it will likely cost you more in the long run between the product not working/failing and the headaches OR pay more and get something that is proven, works, and is reliable. Personally, I would get the essential systems working with good parts and deal with cosmetic later. I'd rather have a ratty bike that runs than a pretty bike that doesn't.

Good luck with the bike. Please ask questions here first, there are tons of helpful ppl who know what they are doing.
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Existing carbs OD 39mm ID 32mm. Those new 34 will not fit carb boots I dont think. I resell unwanted parts on Ebay so no problem. Are different size carb boots available for CL350? I am reassembling carbs after deep clean - I even managed to remove the tiny hard to remove jets. :) Float retaining pin was hard to remove on one, I feared i would break the tiny towers they fit into but all ok now. Didn't want to use heat as I only have a large plumbers gas torch.
 
Exhaust pipes seem to be replacement with some kind of built in baffle tube. Going to be to loud for me. Even buying used original pipes outside my budget. I will probably get some cheap small universal silencers to go on the end of these PO pipes.
 
One carb, to my astonishment, was fine. The other leaked from float bowl seal when tilted. As I tried to remove plastic petrol tube from it, my DIY brass feed pipe came out. Think I will try gas torch and solder.
 
Apparently you need skill and special flux & solder to solder a brass tube into an Alu carb. PTFE tape v2 and v3 not making tight join.
 
Am trying this household glue for the time being, doesn't prohibit or allow petrol usage. Think I need an epoxy based. Despite previous ultrasonic bath, carb was blocked between infeed pipe and float valve so I used some carb cleaner. Drain plug was leaking until I fitted the tiny Alu washer on it.
 
DavidM said:
Am trying this household glue for the time being, doesn't prohibit or allow petrol usage. Think I need an epoxy based.
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I would recommend using JB Weld which is fuel resistant. Clean and lightly sand the mating surfaces and apply carefully to not block the openings.
 
RobMan said:
I would recommend using JB Weld which is fuel resistant. Clean and lightly sand the mating surfaces and apply carefully to not block the openings.
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Thanks, I have ordered some. I tried to test repaired LH carb but fuel not going in. The needle was sticking when I disasssembled it. I polished needle and opening with fine glass paper. Maybe not enough.
 
Magista said:
VM34 is way too big for our 350s. VM28 is the correct size.

I know you are on a budget but those carbs will not work. I would find some rebuilt original carbs or Mikuni VM28s. Yes, they will cost more, but they will also work correctly.

I will second the Sparck harness. They make exceptional products, very high quality. I ran some of their stuff on my old Ducati.

You can cheap out on price but it will likely cost you more in the long run between the product not working/failing and the headaches OR pay more and get something that is proven, works, and is reliable. Personally, I would get the essential systems working with good parts and deal with cosmetic later. I'd rather have a ratty bike that runs than a pretty bike that doesn't.

Good luck with the bike. Please ask questions here first, there are tons of helpful ppl who know what they are doing.
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Thanks for your advice. Existing carbs appear original but are 32mm inner diameter!! Engine number begins CB even though bike is a CL? although front brake is disc? Carb boots appear original and unmarked. Inlet port diameter matches carb boots. I want low / mid range power, I had a CB360 many years ago and didn't like lack of low end power. Original carbs are proving a bit difficult for me to restore. I'm inclined to get smaller ones but will need smaller boots - I guess "correct" CL350 boots will suit 28mm carbs? Any suggestions welcome.
 
Thanks to VHT members advice I have realised the importance of original carbs so took some time and effort to get them functional. Fitted original carbs to engine and no leaks :):). Had engine running briefly :):)on one cylinder with the other joining in occasionally. Very loud with current shorty silencer type pipes. They are approx 38mm OD. I will look for something budget to fit on the end of them.
 
DavidM said:
Thanks for your advice. Existing carbs appear original but are 32mm inner diameter!! Engine number begins CB even though bike is a CL? although front brake is disc? Carb boots appear original and unmarked. Inlet port diameter matches carb boots. I want low / mid range power, I had a CB360 many years ago and didn't like lack of low end power. Original carbs are proving a bit difficult for me to restore. I'm inclined to get smaller ones but will need smaller boots - I guess "correct" CL350 boots will suit 28mm carbs? Any suggestions welcome.
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It should start with CL. Looks like you have a CB that was "converted" to a CL or someone dropped a CB engine into a CL frame (?). CLs did not come with disc brakes.

If I recall correctly, stock boots will not work on any carb. Stock boots have an internal ridge that the OEM carb fits into. If you go Mikuni, they will not fit correctly. I'm not sure about any others, but wouldn't assume they fit. If I'm incorrect, I'm sure someone will chime in here.
 
Bike still very loud exhaust even with new end cans, don't want to annoy neighbours. I will probably fit CB350 pipes as more availability at budget prices and more choice of silencers. Engine starts but running mainly on RH cylinder, just spitting back on left hand. Spark is OK. I had this trouble on the CM450A and mostly fixed it by replacing failed carb boots and cleaning jets. CL350 boot looks solid so I will check jets but I have already cleaned them just a few days ago. Maybe not well enough.
 
stl360+450 said:
Did you check for air leaks?
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Only briefly, carb seems to be good fit in boot, boot seems to be in surprisingly good solid condition with good seal onto cylinder head. I have taken carb off and tiny jet was completely blocked despite me cleaning it only a few days ago :mad:! I think there is a leak test where you spray ? brake cleaner? onto boot and see if that helps. Anyway, I will refit carb soon and see how it goes. On my CM450A the boots came apart, and various attempts to glue them failed and commonly available 400 twin boots too big :oops:. By chance I found that CB250N boots were right size for CM450A. I understand the automatic has smaller carbs than CB400N to improve low/mid range. CX500 too I think.
 
Gas with ethanol can clog up the idle jets pretty quickly. If you can purchase ethanol free gas, it may help. Of course, I have no idea about petrol in the UK, so you will know better what is feasible.
 
E5 petrol is available at most filing stations over here, and varies from 5% ethanol to (allegedly) 0%, dependant on brand. Esso Synergy used to be 0%, not sure if it still is. I use Tesco Momentum E5 in my bikes, mainly because I can use the Pay at Pump facility, beats arguing about having to remove helmet before cashier will turn the pump on. Also, locally, Momentum E5 hasn't gone up much in price, compared with regular E10, in the current 'crisis'.
 
Slightly off topic but I have just read in Yew Emm Gee that: "About the Honda CB350 twins (and the CL350 scramblers). At one time the Honda CB350 was the most popular bike in America and in fact at one time one fifth of all the world's motorcycles were Honda 350s! ." don't know if thats correct but it could explain why you can buy so many brand new parts for a 50 year old bike :)
 
Update - engine running roughly on both cylinders, no air filters yet, still loud, so carbs good enough for next stage. Time to fit new cheap loom and more baffles. New loom is very light! I suspect its made with minimal copper conductor :-( I was warned.
 
Am gradually connecting new budget loom, some wire colours seem a different to original! Purple wire goes where? White with thin black stripe? Anyway real worry is rectifier got very hot even though power switched on for a short time. I am struggling to understand rectifier test routine. Anyway, with rectifier on the bench, putting mulitmeter in diode mode, I get +1v red/white connected to pink, and +1.3v red/white connected to yellow. Is that right? Also could faulty generator be causing rectifier to overheat? Good news is solenoid clicks. Any advice welcome.
 
DavidM said:
Am gradually connecting new budget loom, some wire colours seem a different to original! Purple wire goes where? White with thin black stripe? Anyway real worry is rectifier got very hot even though power switched on for a short time. I am struggling to understand rectifier test routine. Anyway, with rectifier on the bench, putting mulitmeter in diode mode, I get +1v red/white connected to pink, and +1.3v red/white connected to yellow. Is that right? Also could faulty generator be causing rectifier to overheat? Good news is solenoid clicks. Any advice welcome.
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Being able to see what you're talking about helps, and knowing the brand of aftermarket harness wouldn't hurt either. Obviously we have no idea what the purple or white with thin black stripe wires do for that harness as they aren't correct colors for the bike you're working on. We can only help you as well as you help us to do so.
 
Thanks. Purple wire makes sense as horn, it comes out with the big bunch of wires at the front for headlamp and switchgear. I think white and black will be engine cutout as its a double at the end located near the coils and comes out at the front of bike too. Tested the rectifier, nothing shorts to earth altho its probably more complicated than that. I suspect generator is shorting and causing rectifier to heat so I will test generator for continuity with earth.
 
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