CL350 project, imported from US to UK by DK motorcycles.

DavidM said:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/13dGPsu_nJ2q21EMvFxDSsU1LWmTub3m3/view?ts=6a3660d0

this may be the short vid of engine running,
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Needs to be made public, still private.
DavidM said:
I am not sure how to upload a video
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We don't host videos here to save server space for pictures of repair needs. The instructions are all here in this link below, part of your Welcome Package of helpful links so often overlooked.

 
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Advance mech is fine. It does bog down, you can only open throttle very gradually otherwse it stalls. I am thinking the VM34 may be too much carb and I should try VM30s (£40 each) or VM32 (£20 each). They look much the same so the ones I saw on Ebay running CB350 s may be 32s or 30s. I am also inclined to buy new coils as the HT leads look poor and the running problems are so similar from one set of carbs to another.
 
DavidM said:
Advance mech is fine. It does bog down, you can only open throttle very gradually otherwse it stalls. I am thinking the VM34 may be too much carb and I should try VM30s (£40 each) or VM32 (£20 each). They look much the same so the ones I saw on Ebay running CB350 s may be 32s or 30s. I am also inclined to buy new coils as the HT leads look poor and the running problems are so similar from one set of carbs to another.
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Stock carbs are 28mm, yes 34mm Mikunis are too big. But with no accelerator pumps in them (and no vacuum diaphragms), you can't whack the throttle open from idle or low rpm and expect it to run on a huge mouthful of air only. Example, my CL450 restomod with 36mm Mikunis.


Video is public now, sounds like it's running on one cylinder to me. Is your points cover on? If so, take it off and see if the other cylinder fires.
 
If it turns out you have spark on both sides, then I would guess that the mixture is way off and so much so that one side cannot produce combustion.

Have you taken account of the initial settings in terms of the air screw and the slide opening? I assume these have a starter plunger/lever rather than a choke? There are many different ways to narrow down whether it is lean or rich. For example, if things improve when you put your hand over the intake of the carburetor(s), that could indicate you are getting too much air.

It sounded like it was blubbering to me (rich), but I agree with AD that it sounded like only one side was running.
 
Tried an old coil from my CM450T, no difference. Plugs are sooty and getting oiled up. Engine dies when you open throttle. Tiny bit of choke and engine dies. All suggest new carbs are too big / too rich despite Amazon advertising smooth running, clean acceleration etc. I will try some spare carbs i have from 125s.
 
In the end I had the VM34 s running smoothly and evenly but only on tickover. One had started to overflow. They seem like cheap copies of Mikuni. I may try them again with smaller jets after the experiment with the GN125 type carbs. These CL350 carbs are so much easier to refit than CM450T carbs which I found a real struggle to refit.
 

20260621_195352.mp4

drive.google.com drive.google.com

Bike running ok tickover with 2 x GN125 clone carbs. 26mm inner diameter 38mm outer. Aged original throttle cable failed just then so I cant rev it until tomorrow when i fit replacement cable. Points cover is off. I will refit cover and see if any change, gasket missing so less clearance.
 
Running with 2 x GN125 type carbs. I am waiting for Uk registration to be approved then I can try riding on the road. Brakes lights etc all working although rear light flickers a lot when engine is running. Anybody know why that is? Original rectifier was getting hot and failed one of the test measurements so I bought a modern "CL350" ha ha one for £9. That too was getting very hot until I realised the plug on it was wired wrong for CL350 !!!

I also have a PWK30 carb trying to get another so I can try those as a step up from 26mm GN125 types.

Bike is nearly finished from my point of view.
 
My CB360 has shown some flickering in the lighting (especially the tail and brake lights) and it appears to be related to AC current caused by the ignition pulses. I was using a small 3 A•h capacity battery and increasing the capacity of the battery to a standard 12 A•h size led to improvement. What size battery are you using?

What type of circuit breaker are you using? I read above that it is 10A. The single fuse for the CB350 harness is supposed to be 15A. Maybe you won't see 10A, but if you do, the bike is going to shut off. Have you tripped it at all while running the bike thus far?

Are you able to lower the tickover speed and still keep it running? Sounds a little high.
 
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