But when you consider that the factory-intended clearance is .0012", it would be hard to get them too tight without having damn near zero clearance.
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AD
CB450 Black Bomber - Am I becoming a hoarder?
- Thread starter Troy
- Start date
teebo
Veteran Member
Thanks. That’s good to know. Truly.
The really high compression number is most likely due to too much oil added. The TDC combustion chamber is only @25cc's so adding more than 1-2 cc's of oil is going to make a big jump.
Yeah, that was my thought and I mentioned it earlier in the thread.
sc_bomber
Member
It always warms my heart seeing another Bomber out there! Congrats!
Troy
Veteran Member
Well, unlike our friend Teebo, I don't have time to take my carburetors on & off several times each week, etc. I'm envious of that guy. My shop time comes sporadically and I love it when I get to dig out the tools and open the FSM.
2 weeks ago I was able to confirm valve clearance is good, gave the carbs a good rinse in ultrasonic and I'm pretty sure everything is clean and clear, also disassembled and cleaned petcock so I'm happy with the fuel flow.
This weekend I checked timing. Being new to the process I went back and forth and around in circles a few time but think I got this set pretty well.
Then time for a ride. Already I can hear the difference that the valve adjustments made and the bike started and idled better from the timing adjustment. A couple of miles at low speeds and I was pretty happy. Bike was very solid at urban speeds. We have an old 2 lane highway heading out of town with very little traffic. As I accelerated the bike a huge smile hit my face. It finally felt like I was making progress. 60 mph at 6000rpm in 3rd gear...then after 10 seconds or so, blah. Bike bogs down again, sputtering, backfiring, no power, just crap. Won't give me anything over 5000rpm and that sounds terrible. Pull over, put it in neutral and the bike idles fine, revs nicely. Sit there idling for a couple of minutes and then turn back towards home. Same thing, revs and accelerates smoothly, gets to 6000 rpm and then blah again.
I have some thoughts, but they're probably wrong. Any suggestions about what I should be looking at next? I can tell this machine wants to hit the highway with me and go for a great cruise but something us.
2 weeks ago I was able to confirm valve clearance is good, gave the carbs a good rinse in ultrasonic and I'm pretty sure everything is clean and clear, also disassembled and cleaned petcock so I'm happy with the fuel flow.
This weekend I checked timing. Being new to the process I went back and forth and around in circles a few time but think I got this set pretty well.
Then time for a ride. Already I can hear the difference that the valve adjustments made and the bike started and idled better from the timing adjustment. A couple of miles at low speeds and I was pretty happy. Bike was very solid at urban speeds. We have an old 2 lane highway heading out of town with very little traffic. As I accelerated the bike a huge smile hit my face. It finally felt like I was making progress. 60 mph at 6000rpm in 3rd gear...then after 10 seconds or so, blah. Bike bogs down again, sputtering, backfiring, no power, just crap. Won't give me anything over 5000rpm and that sounds terrible. Pull over, put it in neutral and the bike idles fine, revs nicely. Sit there idling for a couple of minutes and then turn back towards home. Same thing, revs and accelerates smoothly, gets to 6000 rpm and then blah again.
I have some thoughts, but they're probably wrong. Any suggestions about what I should be looking at next? I can tell this machine wants to hit the highway with me and go for a great cruise but something us.
jensen
Veteran Member
First the simple things :
Choke position ?
Battery voltage ?
Fuel cap ?
Choke position ?
Battery voltage ?
Fuel cap ?
Troy
Veteran Member
Thanks Jensen,
Good approach...sometimes we forget the simple things.
Choke open (lever straight down).
12.65 volts, fully charged.
Cap is brand new and venting.
jensen
Veteran Member
You could do a plug chop at 5000–6000 rpm, for both cylinders, you have to confirm yourself that the engine doesn't run lean.
Troy
Veteran Member
Thanks for the tip. Is it a dumb question for me to wonder if this might be a timing advance issue?
jensen
Veteran Member
Could be, but then the timing is likely way to early (or too late).
teebo
Veteran Member
5-6k is where I often had problems. But note the throttle position. I put tape on the throttle so I could see how far it was open. On the throttle housing I put marks in 1/4 increments. Then a mark on the throttle as an indicator.
Then plug chop. We don’t have a kill switch so it’s harder to do. Especially past 1/2. But I was able to do 1/2 throttle chops fairly well. Reach down and turn switch off, and quickly pull clutch and coast to stop.
It’s easier on an incline so that speed is reduced and you can stay at a safer speed at a given throttle position.
I ultimately rigged a temporary kill switch.
Then plug chop. We don’t have a kill switch so it’s harder to do. Especially past 1/2. But I was able to do 1/2 throttle chops fairly well. Reach down and turn switch off, and quickly pull clutch and coast to stop.
It’s easier on an incline so that speed is reduced and you can stay at a safer speed at a given throttle position.
I ultimately rigged a temporary kill switch.
Troy
Veteran Member
While I certainly respect the advice given, I can say with 90% certainty that I simply won't have the time to delve into a plug chop before the snow flies. In the meantime I would welcome any suggestions that might involve late night tinkering in the garage because that's probably the only blocks of time available to me right now. I have so much spare time in the winter and virtually none in the summer months.
teebo
Veteran Member
It’s not a race. Tuck it away for when you do.
wentwest
Veteran Member
As logical as all the thoughts have been, I keep thinking you either have fuel supply issues or the fuel level in the carb float bowls are just too low. I'd take off the tank, tip it to a place where you can remove the fuel petcock, remove it and investigate whether there is anything blocking the fuel going to the petcock from maybe a clogged filter. Then make sure the petcock is working correctly, clean the sediment bowl, and re-install it. Check the flows. Maybe just replace the fuel lines, but at least blow them out.
Other than the electrical issues already discussed, make sure the exhaust system has no obstructions at all. My bomber had later pipes on it and the inner layer of one down pipe was separated and completely blocked the exhaust. It wouldn't fire at all, just burp back through the carb. I confirmed it by trying to push a plumbing snake through. Complete failure. You could have a partial blockage.
Other than the electrical issues already discussed, make sure the exhaust system has no obstructions at all. My bomber had later pipes on it and the inner layer of one down pipe was separated and completely blocked the exhaust. It wouldn't fire at all, just burp back through the carb. I confirmed it by trying to push a plumbing snake through. Complete failure. You could have a partial blockage.
Troy
Veteran Member
Thanks Wentwest. I am grateful for everyone who has chimed in and am not stuck in my thinking so I wouldn't rule out any previous suggestions. Goodness knows my knowledge is non-existent compared to the sage advice I receive here. That being said, I too have been thinking all along that it just "feels" like a fuel supply issue. 2 weekends ago I completely drained the fuel tank and blew it out to make sure there was no debris, dismantled the petcock, made sure it was clean, and blew air through the passages. Same with the fuel lines. Both petcock and fuel lines are essentially new so any debris would have to be recent. The mechanic that put things together after rebuilding the engine did install a couple of low end in line filters but even with those, there seems to be lots of fuel making it's way through to the end of the lines, although I can't quantify it. At the same time I gave the carbs a bath and blew them out just to be sure...BUT...the one thing that I didn't check was float levels and thank you for the suggestion. It feels like the bike gets going well enough and then there just isn't enough fuel available to sustain it for long. Tomorrow I will re-plumb it without the inline filters and check the float levels to see if there is any difference. This might be my last opportunity of the season to actually do a little work and then take it for a test ride due to a busy fall schedule with family stuff.
A question for anybody who might know...at a given rpm at a standstill in neutral, will the bike consume the same volume of fuel as it would at that rpm in gear on the highway? In other words, does the bike need more fuel to sustain 6000 rpm in 4th gear as it does to sustain 6000 rpm in neutral? I'm not suggesting running the bike at 6000 rpm in neutral in the driveway for any length of time, just a hypothetical question?
Oh ya, quick edit. The headers and exhaust are both brand new as well so doubtful that there is any obstruction but I will investigate and confirm.
jensen
Veteran Member
No, basic physics. To overcome the resistance of, for example, air, tires to road, etc, the load is much higher when doing 6000 rpm in neutral. When the load is higher, the engine needs to deliver more energy, resulting in opening the throttle, thus more air / fuel mix.
Troy
Veteran Member
ok. Just wasn't sure if each cycle of the piston drew in an identical volume of fuel & air (in this case roughly 225 cc per side) regardless of how the energy produced is being utilized.
Troy
Veteran Member
Well I finally have some good news to report and slow clap for Wentwest. All along it seemed like my trouble was fuel related but I never thought to check float heights until wentwest suggested. That was when I slapped my forehead with the palm of my hand. According to FSM, float height should be 20mm but both sides were at least 3 mm off. There just wasn't enough fuel available in the bowls once I hit any kind of higher rpm/speed. Adjust the floats to 20mm and went for a 20 minute ride...hit 70 mph at 7000 rpm with none of the previous troubles. There is still fine tuning to be done but I at least I cleared a major hurdle. At the very least I will be able to sleep this winter knowing that I have a bike that runs ok and will run great soon enough. Thanks to AD, LDR, Jensen, Teebo, Wentwest and everyone else who took enough of an interest to chime in.
Troy
Veteran Member
Well, it's been quite some time since I updated this thread. Last summer came and went with a number of personal challenges that limited my time to get this bike dialed in. By the time it was put away for the fall it was running albeit with work to be done.
1) Not returning to idle. After a good run at highway RPM it doesn't return to idle. Given the countless threads and comments about misbehaving ignition advancers on these engines I think my best best is to install this EI that replaces the advancer. https://www.elektronik-sachse.de/shopsystem-3/en/digital-ignition-zdg-3-23-for-honda-cb450-500t.html
2) There was lots of drama around the rebuilding of this engine. I won't get into it again but suffice to say that I had it rebuilt twice before I ever had the chance to ride. Lots of money and frustration. Something I noticed almost right away was at least one oil leak, seemingly somewhere in the top end as there is small pool of oil on the upper crankcase. I'm taking it back to the shop that put it back together most recently and asking them to sort that out. This is actually something that has led me to rethink my approach with my future projects and learn to do more of the work myself. I figure "why pay someone to put my bike back together imperfectly when I can do that myself for free"
3) In preparation to get the bike ready to drag to the city, and wanting to be sure that it was running first, I just charged the battery, changed the oil, checked timing and valve clearances. This afternoon I took it out to the driveway to start it up. Well, 2 steps forward, 1 step back. After a long rest this winter the bike started quicker and cleaner than ever before. I couldn't believe it as it has been a struggle to start in the past. I assume because the ignition was retarded and is now set correctly. I've only checked static timing for now. Anyhow, bike started up right away. Once I turned the choke off the engine raced and I switched it off with the key. This is when I noticed the puddle of fuel on the driveway. Looked closely and there was fuel running down the outside of one of the carb bowls. To be clear, not leaking from drain screw at the bottom of the bowl but seemingly running down from between the top of the bowl and the carb body. I haven't taken anything apart for a closer look yet but wondering how this can be so. I would think that the only way the fuel level can get high enough in the bowl to run over the top is a float valve not closing properly? Just want to make sure I'm looking the right direction before I start getting into it. It's such a pain to pull these carbs.
Anyhow, feel like I'm getting closer and since I'm getting an early start on these issues I might just get to enjoy the bike this summer.
1) Not returning to idle. After a good run at highway RPM it doesn't return to idle. Given the countless threads and comments about misbehaving ignition advancers on these engines I think my best best is to install this EI that replaces the advancer. https://www.elektronik-sachse.de/shopsystem-3/en/digital-ignition-zdg-3-23-for-honda-cb450-500t.html
2) There was lots of drama around the rebuilding of this engine. I won't get into it again but suffice to say that I had it rebuilt twice before I ever had the chance to ride. Lots of money and frustration. Something I noticed almost right away was at least one oil leak, seemingly somewhere in the top end as there is small pool of oil on the upper crankcase. I'm taking it back to the shop that put it back together most recently and asking them to sort that out. This is actually something that has led me to rethink my approach with my future projects and learn to do more of the work myself. I figure "why pay someone to put my bike back together imperfectly when I can do that myself for free"
3) In preparation to get the bike ready to drag to the city, and wanting to be sure that it was running first, I just charged the battery, changed the oil, checked timing and valve clearances. This afternoon I took it out to the driveway to start it up. Well, 2 steps forward, 1 step back. After a long rest this winter the bike started quicker and cleaner than ever before. I couldn't believe it as it has been a struggle to start in the past. I assume because the ignition was retarded and is now set correctly. I've only checked static timing for now. Anyhow, bike started up right away. Once I turned the choke off the engine raced and I switched it off with the key. This is when I noticed the puddle of fuel on the driveway. Looked closely and there was fuel running down the outside of one of the carb bowls. To be clear, not leaking from drain screw at the bottom of the bowl but seemingly running down from between the top of the bowl and the carb body. I haven't taken anything apart for a closer look yet but wondering how this can be so. I would think that the only way the fuel level can get high enough in the bowl to run over the top is a float valve not closing properly? Just want to make sure I'm looking the right direction before I start getting into it. It's such a pain to pull these carbs.
Anyhow, feel like I'm getting closer and since I'm getting an early start on these issues I might just get to enjoy the bike this summer.
Troy
Veteran Member
As I'm vacuuming the house and thinking about this further, it seems to me that the excess fuel and the high idle are quite possibly related?
wentwest
Veteran Member
Maybe because I'm a believer in the wisdom you laid out in your paragraph 2), the first thing I try when a carb is leaking out like yours is checking to see it there's a leak where the supply hose attaches to the carb body. Then I use the plastic handle end of my trusty Vessel Megadora screwdriver to deliver a gentle but firm BONK to the side of the carb body, hoping the float has become stuck down and will free itself. They sometimes get caught under the lip of the gasket between the bowl and the carb itself.
KHSE
Veteran Member
Maybe but I think a high fuel level in the float chamber would cause the bike to stumble and die so may be unrelated.
Troy
Veteran Member
Well...I'm at my wit's end with this machine. One day it starts right up, the next day it won't, today I seem to only have spark on one side but I don't have a reasonable explanation for what could have happened overnight to cause that. (Maybe in the process of pulling the carbs in and out, I inadvertently knocked a wire loose.)
I feel so out of my depth. While Jays100 is writing about how to essentially build your own carburetor I'm gently BONKing mine.
Anyhow, pulled them off and opened them up to try to determine why the leak (and maybe the high idle) Change the float bowl gaskets, although I do realize that isn't the source of the problem. Also changed the washers at the base of the needle seat. I couldn't see any problem with the movement of the float needle. Once back together there is still some fuel spilling over the top of the bowl and I wonder if it might be time to change the float needle and seat? I have aftermarket parts that I could swap out. I realize that there are typically discrepancies with aftermarket but my goal is to see if I can solve the fuel overflow. I also have aftermarket floats so in theory I suppose I can swap it all and then reset the float heights with the new parts. Everything else seems ok. Vacuum slides move very smoothly with no binding at all. All original brass is in place.
I have also ordered a new Motobatt battery for the bike as this battery seems pretty weak and not holding a charge well. It's been abused in the process of trying to get the bike over the past couple of years. New battery can't hurt anything.
Now I will try to figure why I had spark 2 days ago and today I don't on one side. I don't want to surrender yet but this thing is wearing me down. Right now I would settle for having it consistently run poorly (instead of not at all) so at least I could move through step by step to solve problems. One thing I hate about the bike is how much work it is to get at the various components.
I feel so out of my depth. While Jays100 is writing about how to essentially build your own carburetor I'm gently BONKing mine.
Anyhow, pulled them off and opened them up to try to determine why the leak (and maybe the high idle) Change the float bowl gaskets, although I do realize that isn't the source of the problem. Also changed the washers at the base of the needle seat. I couldn't see any problem with the movement of the float needle. Once back together there is still some fuel spilling over the top of the bowl and I wonder if it might be time to change the float needle and seat? I have aftermarket parts that I could swap out. I realize that there are typically discrepancies with aftermarket but my goal is to see if I can solve the fuel overflow. I also have aftermarket floats so in theory I suppose I can swap it all and then reset the float heights with the new parts. Everything else seems ok. Vacuum slides move very smoothly with no binding at all. All original brass is in place.
I have also ordered a new Motobatt battery for the bike as this battery seems pretty weak and not holding a charge well. It's been abused in the process of trying to get the bike over the past couple of years. New battery can't hurt anything.
Now I will try to figure why I had spark 2 days ago and today I don't on one side. I don't want to surrender yet but this thing is wearing me down. Right now I would settle for having it consistently run poorly (instead of not at all) so at least I could move through step by step to solve problems. One thing I hate about the bike is how much work it is to get at the various components.
Aside from an accidentally disconnected wire at the coils due to removing the carbs, a battery holding less than 12v would at least cause weaker spark and can cause only one coil to spark if low enough.
Troy
Veteran Member
A very plausible explanation considering the battery is weak at best.
wentwest
Veteran Member
I have, in times of deep despair, used jumper cables with a car battery to kick the miserable SOB to life.
Troy
Veteran Member
I know. It's frustrating at times. I have spared no expense and never cut a corner but somehow true success eludes me.
For now... but it won't forever. Not making fun at all, but at some point you will have addressed anything the bike needed that hadn't already been done. Gremlins will still happen now and then, it does to all of our bikes at some point no matter how closely we look at them. But maintaining the simplicity of the older systems on these bikes beats the hell out of dealing with ultra-expensive electronics on modern stuff that can be just as "reliable".
You're perseverant, you'll get it right in the end.
teebo
Veteran Member
This is how I know that Troy and I are cosmically linked. I’m watching this thread, but be forewarned I’m in the weeds and may start another thread. It’s one of those events that make me think… “teebo, you’re an idiot. Somehow. Idiots never know.”
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Might be leaky floats are heavy and won't close. You could remove them in place and give them a shake to hear gas inside, then you know.
KHSE
Veteran Member
That could well be and very worth checking.
A 1958 Austin Healey 100/6 that I had for many years used to get leaky carbs from the float valves not closing when they should. I would always turn on the ignition and listen to the electric fuel pump run before starting the engine. If the pump didn't stop running I knew a carb was leaking so I'd shut off the ignition and go rap on the leaking carb a bit. Turn ignition back on and listen for the fuel pump to stop which it usually did and I'd carry on. The point being that if the carb sits for a bit, it can develop a 'temporary' leaky condition that after being bonked back into not leaking could then carry on for many miles as if nothing had happened.
One thing I have heard is that aftermarket float bowl gaskets can be a bit big and impinge on the float stopping it from rising. But, the carb had been behaving and then one day leaked so not sure that is the case here. But, if you change the gasket, make sure it doesn't hang out too far into the float chamber.
Did you ever get spark back to both plugs?
KHSE
Veteran Member
I just finished rereading your entire thread. Since I found this website, several threads have been very useful for me. This is one of them.
It seems to me that after you reset the float heights and ignition timing the bike was running quite well. So it seemed like carbs and ignition were pretty well set. One thing I noticed however was that you don't ever mention that you yourself ever disassembled the carbs completely. You state someone else did it. Maybe next time you take the carbs off, take the main and slow jets out. Under them there are emulsion tubes. They can be hard to get out. If your guy didn't take them out and clean them they could be gunked up. Did they take them out? If they don't easily come out I bet they weren't cleaned. To get them out you might have to heat the carb 'tubes' very carefully with a propane torch. Don't get too aggressive with the screwdriver because you can break off the ears...
It seems to me that after you reset the float heights and ignition timing the bike was running quite well. So it seemed like carbs and ignition were pretty well set. One thing I noticed however was that you don't ever mention that you yourself ever disassembled the carbs completely. You state someone else did it. Maybe next time you take the carbs off, take the main and slow jets out. Under them there are emulsion tubes. They can be hard to get out. If your guy didn't take them out and clean them they could be gunked up. Did they take them out? If they don't easily come out I bet they weren't cleaned. To get them out you might have to heat the carb 'tubes' very carefully with a propane torch. Don't get too aggressive with the screwdriver because you can break off the ears...
Troy
Veteran Member
BB and KHSE, all good ideas! I had the floats in my hand the other day and gave them a shake. Didn't sound or feel like there was anything inside of them. Still no spark, waiting on new battery and so with that in mind I decided to move on to more productive things today and will leave the Bomber alone until the battery arrives. I think it's time for the Bomber and I to have a good talk about attitude. Mine is fine but I think the bike needs to start being more cooperative.
Cleaned the inside of my truck and spent a little time with the S90. It is ready for fuel and a kick. Need to paint the fenders and tank, then I can do the final assembly and test ride it.
Cleaned the inside of my truck and spent a little time with the S90. It is ready for fuel and a kick. Need to paint the fenders and tank, then I can do the final assembly and test ride it.
RobMan
Veteran Member
Looking forward to seeing some pics of your S90 and maybe a video of it running. I have to get the new fork gaiters on my 65 and run the pre-flight check list for the season especially check the cam chain tension.
Troy
Veteran Member
Me too! Busy at work right now and a trip to Vancouver next week so it might be 2 or 3 weeks but it's close.
Troy
Veteran Member
The bike is pranking me!! Finally getting back to the Bomber...New battery arrived the other day. Fully charged and installed, bike doesn't start. Checked for spark. Still only have spark on right side. Hmmm...Pull tank to check connections. Unplug and plug everything back together. Everything seems good. Pull points cover off. Don't see anything strange there either. Check and there is now spark on both sides. OK...this is good.
Put all back together but check again just to be safe before connecting fuel tank to carb. No spark on left hand side again!! The bike is laughing at me.
Pop the tank again. Recheck the connections. Still no spark on left side. Now the bike is rolling on the floor laughing at me. This is weird. So...I pop the points cover off again. Bingo...now I have spark on both sides. The bike is now pointing at me and laughing even harder, and so are the other bikes in the garage.
In conclusion...No spark on left side when points cover is installed. I can't see anything but another set of eyes would be great....
Put all back together but check again just to be safe before connecting fuel tank to carb. No spark on left hand side again!! The bike is laughing at me.
Pop the tank again. Recheck the connections. Still no spark on left side. Now the bike is rolling on the floor laughing at me. This is weird. So...I pop the points cover off again. Bingo...now I have spark on both sides. The bike is now pointing at me and laughing even harder, and so are the other bikes in the garage.
In conclusion...No spark on left side when points cover is installed. I can't see anything but another set of eyes would be great....
Attachments
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This is the correct orientation of the points wire terminals so they don't short on the points cover.
Also, I don't know about your other valve adjustment shafts, but the left exhaust adjuster shaft is rotated to the wrong orientation. The index mark on it should be pointing away from the spark plug, as should all of them.
Also, I don't know about your other valve adjustment shafts, but the left exhaust adjuster shaft is rotated to the wrong orientation. The index mark on it should be pointing away from the spark plug, as should all of them.
wentwest
Veteran Member
I plastered a strip of electric tape on the inside of the points cover so if things are too close there's some insulation.
Troy
Veteran Member
Just the one. I'll take care of that.
I don't see how that is different than my photos? What am I missing?
Went back for a closer look. Realized that the breaker assembly was sitting low on the points base. You can see in the photo that it is not inside of the points base as it should be but is sitting on the lip of it. I will have to get that right and then reset the timing.
While I'm doing that, I have some questions.
1 - commonly I see folks using a test light for checking the static timing. As this requires the ignition to be on, is there any reason why one couldn't leave the ignition off and use a multimeter to check for continuity when the points are opening and closing? To me this seems to be a plausible method as then you have an audible indication?
2 - As the spark advancer is a known problem, is there anything I can look for at this stage to observe any problems? It seems to move smoothly and returns to it's resting state without any problem but I'm too ignorant to know what I might see as a problem. I realize that a timing light is the next step but that assumes the bike is running, which it isn't currently. When the time comes we'll talk about that.
Seems logical.
You do realize the valve will need to be readjusted, right? Just want to make sure you understand that you can't just rotate it around without pulling the valve cover and going through a regular adjustment, during which you rotate the shaft so the index mark points the right direction.
Yours - note how low the right cylinder's terminal is hanging down because it is 180 degrees from how the example I showed you is.
Not sure how it can be if the screw holes are aligned and the screws in and tightened.
Of course. Or you could simply put a piece of paper between the other set of points that you're not adjusting.
Timing light is the simplest way to see the marks return to the idle setting.
Troy
Veteran Member
Yes, I do. Thanks.
Got it
There is a tiny bit of vertical clearance and it must have just snagged up when I was there last time and tightened the screws. I just loosened up the screws and gave it a little wiggle and it set back into place correctly. I didn't notice it originally because it isn't obvious when viewed from slightly above.
I'm heading out town on Thursday but I'll try to find time tomorrow and take care of these things and see where things go from there.
If you're talking about the entire points plate, they do sometimes fit a bit loosely in the base. Know that just refitting the plate will change your points gaps and timing as a result, so that will need to be done again.
Troy
Veteran Member
yes & yes. That's my plan. I will be checking everything carefully before I button it all up. Once again, I have learned something today. Thanks
KHSE
Veteran Member
The way I have done it is to disconnect the points from the coil. Just pull the points' bullet connectors out from their connections. Don't turn on the ignition, no need. Now you can use your continuity meter to your heart's content without worrying about the coil etc. I use a continuity light but if your continuity meter has a relaible noise maker that works too.
Troy
Veteran Member
Spark issue resolved and timing set. Big juicy spark on both sides. Bike started easily but only running on one side so something still not right. I'm leaving tomorrow for about a week so I will have to resume this when I'm back. I'm optimistic.