CB360 ignition timing

[Adam shehan]

So did the cam chain , valves and timing on my cb 360, set left point and 14 thou and after timing that cylinder and then right my right cylinder is less than twelve which direction with the gap would I go on the left to bring the right into spec , my points are old and I have a set of nos but would like to get the most out of them, but my right cylinder is back firing now and it wasn’t before I did the timing I feel it’s probably a issue with how the points are set, I was going to mess with it this weekend but figured I would try to get alittle insight before I did it this weekend. Definitely seems ignition to me . I haven’t been riding it much lately because I’ve been working on a different project but always use non ethanol and did put fresh fuel in it after I put tank back (hate the cross over tube)

 

[ancientdad]

So did the cam chain , valves and timing on my cb 360, set left point and 14 thou and after timing that cylinder and then right my right cylinder is less than twelve which direction with the gap would I go on the left to bring the right into spec , my points are old and I have a set of nos but would like to get the most out of them, but my right cylinder is back firing now and it wasn’t before I did the timing I feel it’s probably a issue with how the points are set, I was going to mess with it this weekend but figured I would try to get alittle insight before I did it this weekend. Definitely seems ignition to me . I haven’t been riding it much lately because I’ve been working on a different project but always use non ethanol and did put fresh fuel in it after I put tank back (hate the cross over tube)

This explains specifically how to do it:

The proper method involves first turning the engine until the breaker cam opens first the left set of points to the fully open position and setting the gap of that set of points at .014", then turning the engine until the right set of points is fully open and setting them at .014", then adjust the left side timing by rotating the points plate so the left points break at LF. You then lock the points plate and check the timing on the right cylinder to see if the points break at the F mark and if they do not, you adjust the gap to get the right points to break at F. If after that adjustment is made, the gap on the right points is less than .012", you go back to the beginning and reduce the left points gap to .012", set that timing by rotating the plate to open at LF, then check the right side again and adjust the right points to open at F.

Yes, it can take a few tries to get both correct, but that is the procedure since there is only one plate that both sets of points are mounted on, so when you rotate the plate to advance or retard the left timing it affects both.