Cam Install trick

spoore21

spoore21

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2023
Total Posts
48
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Location
Mount Ayr, Iowa USA
Every time I try to install the side holders for the cams they end up going in tight. I have to hit them with the mallet to get them to go all the way in. Does anybody have any suggestions or tips or tricks for this? Is there something I’m not doing correctly. It only gets tight after I add the rockers.IMG_6216.jpeg
 
Loosen the cam followers and rotate the cam until all valves are loose - install cam bearings with assembly lube and they should slide right in. You shouldn’t need anything by more than a smack with your palm.

Once the cam is in, then set your cam chain and static timing.
 
spoore21 said:
Every time I try to install the side holders for the cams they end up going in tight. I have to hit them with the mallet to get them to go all the way in. Does anybody have any suggestions or tips or tricks for this? Is there something I’m not doing correctly. It only gets tight after I add the rockers.
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@Boomer343 outlined his method of assembly in another member's thread somewhere here, I looked for it but didn't find it.
 
No mallet required ..... after you have the rotor at LT and the line on the cam sprocket in line with the case then while holding tension on the cam and timing chain rotate the crankshaft until the pin on the end of the cam is close to the 5 o'clock position. The caps will slide on with hand pressure. Couple tips to make it easier ..... lube the bottom surface of the cam support where it contacts the cam box, lube the top of the rocker pins. Have the adjusters set to max clearance and timing chain tension device removed.

Plan out the assembly so everything is easy to access. I use a ratcheting wrench on the rotor nut and have a tray with the parts laid out.

You have of course use red loctite on the cam sprocket bolts and torqued them properly .... also use spacers and nuts on two of the studs to compress the top end assembly
 
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Thanks Boomer. I appreciate the help. I was able to get it all back together today. Should be a nice build when done. Going to paint this week.
 
I had a weird thing happen today. I was riding my 69 cl350 (prof pic) a it was sounding extra chattery. I decided to check valve timing and the exhaust on the ledt and jntake on the right lock nuts for the rocker adjusters were conpletely loose. I was in disbelief. I reset the clearances and tightened them but noticed a ton of sludge and glitter in the oil centrifugal filter.

I cleaned it out good and drained oil and filled with 10w40 (cheaper) and will flush and refill with Rotella T6 15w40 full synth (my personal fave).

Anyone ever have this happen? I am pretty meticulous and just took it on a 100 mi ride last week. I am thinking they vibrated loose during the ride.

Also, I have to push 6-7k rpm to get to 65-70 mph. Does that seem consistent with your machines? Thanks guys.
 
The relationship between rpm and speed in each gear is fixed based on your sprocket choices. I believe stock is 36T/16T = 2.25 final drive ratio and that puts 60-70 mph very close to 6000-7000 rpm in fifth gear.

How many miles had you ridden since the centrifugal filter was last cleaned? Hopefully you're just finding usual buildup.

I guess it's one more thing to keep an ear out for on longer rides. Did you notice any loss in power on that hundred mile run?
 
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Good info thanks. I am pretty sure I have a 15 tooth on it. Its to responsive for me in 1-3. It would be preferable to be at 6000 or less at 55-60. I think I might look it into getting a 14t. Have you ever changed a rear sprocket?

I rebuilt the motor this past year. Just wrapped it up last December. I did only little rides at 6000 or less - maybe 200 miles total. It was definitely more than usual. I put new cam chain tensioner gears in - might be some of that as well. I was planning on waiting a bit longer to change the oil after the rebuild but decided to do it early adter I saw the rocker adjustment locks had gotten loose. I mean, they were like 3 threads or so from the cam holder. I was shocked it was even running. I didn’t really feel anything noticeable other than the ticking was excessive. Power was still fairly the same.

I will have to post a pic when I flush it after today’s 50 mi ride. It runs great after the valve lash has been set.

I didn’t experience a y
 
spoore21 said:
Good info thanks. I am pretty sure I have a 15 tooth on it. Its to responsive for me in 1-3. It would be preferable to be at 6000 or less at 55-60. I think I might look it into getting a 14t. Have you ever changed a rear sprocket?
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A 14 tooth front sprocket will only make your rpms higher at the same speed, what you're thinking of is a one tooth larger front sprocket to lower the rpms on the highway. But you will lose a little bit of acceleration from the higher gear ratio.
 
spoore21 said:
Its to responsive for me in 1-3. It would be preferable to be at 6000 or less at 55-60. I think I might look it into getting a 14t. Have you ever changed a rear sprocket?
Click to expand...
When I built my CB350 I was thinking it would mostly see city use and used 38T/15T sprockets — 60 mph in fifth gear is about 6800 rpm.

Here's what things look like with 36T/17T. It would make the bike slower, but perhaps a better commuter.

1046.jpg

You can go to the gearing commander site to play around with things easily — choose the 350G.
 
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