jensen
Veteran Member
Finally, everything ready for plating. Cleaned, cut threads, and all heads of the JIS crosshead bolts polished.
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An in between job, CB72'66 and a C77'64
- Thread starter jensen
- Start date
jensen
Veteran Member
Finally, some time to spend in the shed after a (business) few trips (Berlin, Serbia, Stuttgart, Luxembourg and Barcelona). Yesterday I got the parts back from the zinc-plater, and the started to sort the parts.
Are large parts were polished by me, that shows after plating.
Even the smallest wires in the screen are nicely plated, front and back.
Air filter of the C77, the glue is still there, and will be a nice base for the foam filter.
Everything did set me back 50 Euros, plus a cake I bought for the guys at the plater
Are large parts were polished by me, that shows after plating.
Even the smallest wires in the screen are nicely plated, front and back.
Air filter of the C77, the glue is still there, and will be a nice base for the foam filter.
Everything did set me back 50 Euros, plus a cake I bought for the guys at the plater
boddy
Veteran Member
Very nice results and that was a lot of plating for only 50 euros.
kbongos
Veteran Member
Add to that the time to de-rust, clean and sort, these are priceless.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
That's what I call wise investing in precious metal.
jensen
Veteran Member
yes, indeed. If you calculate the 20 hours of work to the 50 euros, with an hourly tariff of 30 euro/hour, it's 650 euros. I do know that the value of the parts is higher than 650 euros, if you can find it and if it's for sale. Some parts are really hard to get, some impossible to get. To bring that stuff away, out of my hands, to a plater is always scary, but until this day nothing has disappeared. It took a while to find the right company for this work. I have to drive 140 km, one way, and that's in the Netherlands, a large distance.
In the past I worked with another company, but they were more expensive, and on top of that, the plating did not hold that long (too thin).
btw, if you take a look at for example the bag of nuts, you'll see that every nut is flat. I flattened every nut by hand on two sides with a file, and sometimes when the side of the nuts were damaged too much, I used a file to flatten that too. All castle nuts were taken to a lath at my work, to re-work them, making them better than new.
Not all the parts came out perfectly, I put them aside, and will bring them with the next load.
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bilbikek411
Veteran Member
Good quality work.
jensen
Veteran Member
Thanks, I was amazed how the C77 air filter housing came out. I have a NOS one, but this one is shinier. I will use (oiled) foam as a filter element, so I can maintain it regularly.
jensen
Veteran Member
I did discuss this with the specialists at the plater, and he said that that happens sometimes. Reasons he mentioned where:
- Not good electrical contact during the plating process, leading to a "stain"
- Contaminated surface, but not likely since the parts are washed by me, and by the company.
- Material, probably the alloy itself.
For example, I did put in 6 nipples (air / oil nipples at the back of the CB72 / C77 cylinder head). 2 nipples were taken from the 1967 CB72, 2 from the 1964 C77, and 2 from the 1961 CB72.
The ones from the CB72'61 did not come out good, the other four came out perfectly. I mark parts from different years, and I don't think it's a coincidence. The nipples from the '61 were also less magnetic than the later ones, maybe it's some sort of stainless material.
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ballbearian
Veteran Member
I was going to compliment that nice filter frame. Unifilter green high density foam and a hot glue gun worked well.
Also, the two tubing holes for the intake valve guide breathers are there, Honda later decided these were not needed much and I've heard some simply put a solid bolt in the nipple holes. I was able to clear those passages through to the guides on mine and am running the tubing to the filter as designed.
jensen
Veteran Member
This weekend I finished the build of the CD50-H (H from Holland, thus Dutch type), with adding the painted parts to the bike. 
The painter did a very good job, for example, the headlight shell is NOS, headlight ears are painted. Frame is original, never painted, the fuel tank is painted.
Side covers are painted, the chain covers are original paint, as the rear shock covers.
I'm happy with the results, ready for many miles in the feature. Can you imagine I bought this bike in 1982, as a very nice almost new bike (build in 1974).
Another finished project (finally).
This morning was sunny, and cold, freezing cold.
The painter did a very good job, for example, the headlight shell is NOS, headlight ears are painted. Frame is original, never painted, the fuel tank is painted.
Side covers are painted, the chain covers are original paint, as the rear shock covers.
I'm happy with the results, ready for many miles in the feature. Can you imagine I bought this bike in 1982, as a very nice almost new bike (build in 1974).
Another finished project (finally).
This morning was sunny, and cold, freezing cold.
Nicely done as usual Jensen
kbongos
Veteran Member
The CD50-H looks incredible. Amazing you have had it since 82. Paint match looks great. Amazing the effort you put into the cleanup of these nuts and bolts and metal parts. So zinc electroplating. I did some researching, and lot's options(like nickel plating, non-electroplating, more chemical). A few companies nearby seemed to specialize and probably favor more specialized needs, I suppose more money to make. Watched a few you tubes on people doing their own zinc electroplating. You mentioned doing some of your own. I'm sure it's not an easy task to do well. And it does sound like a small part of the process with all the cleanup required.
You were watching a local auction with the expert(cough) appraised over-valued bike(if I recall correct it was a black bomber, CB450 K0). Were you able to see if someone bought it and for how much? I recall some of our experts here agreeing with you on it's less than great state.
You were watching a local auction with the expert(cough) appraised over-valued bike(if I recall correct it was a black bomber, CB450 K0). Were you able to see if someone bought it and for how much? I recall some of our experts here agreeing with you on it's less than great state.
jensen
Veteran Member
Restoration is nice, but can be costly, however, to get a feeling of the total costs of this bike, including insurance, fuel and parts, an insight in the financials:
Dark red is money out, blue is money in. In the year 1987, when I was 20 years old, I was involved in an accident with this moped. The front fork was bend, head shell broken, headlight glass broken, shift shaft bend, engine side cover damaged,and a few other small parts. The insurance company of the other party paid 1700 euro's for the damage. I bought new parts for this bike in 1988, when still affordable, including an impossible to find NOS headlight shell in candy sapphire blue.
I'm still not sure if I keep the bike or sell it, since the value is high at the moment. Selling your first bike cannot be undone, and I'm sure I will regret it (but letting things go is part of getting older )
Dark red is money out, blue is money in. In the year 1987, when I was 20 years old, I was involved in an accident with this moped. The front fork was bend, head shell broken, headlight glass broken, shift shaft bend, engine side cover damaged,and a few other small parts. The insurance company of the other party paid 1700 euro's for the damage. I bought new parts for this bike in 1988, when still affordable, including an impossible to find NOS headlight shell in candy sapphire blue.
I'm still not sure if I keep the bike or sell it, since the value is high at the moment. Selling your first bike cannot be undone, and I'm sure I will regret it (but letting things go is part of getting older
)
raydike
Member
I had one too in the early 80s. As I remember I bought it second hand for 250 guilders, very cheap, together with a long leather coat and a bag of tools. I went on holiday with it a couple of times, here a photo of me filling my camping stove while on a trip to Sweden. Still have the stove!
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jensen
Veteran Member
O nice, you've bin to Sweden on the CD50? covered the whole distance by moped? Candy red, also a nice color. My biggest trip on the CD50 was France, Paris to be exact, it was in the summer of 1986.
raydike
Member
Yes when I was in my early 20s I went on long moped holidays with my twin brother, all the way to Sweden, Scotland and Italy. The trip to Italy (Rome) and back took 6 weeks, 6000 km. In Scotland my CD50 had a burnt exhaust valve, luckily we could find one in Edinburgh. Fixed it on a pick-nick table.
Here a photo of our trip to Scotland. My brother had a C50. A lot of stuff we dragged around haha.
Here a photo of our trip to Scotland. My brother had a C50. A lot of stuff we dragged around haha.
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jensen
Veteran Member
As can be read somewhere else on the forum, the next "in between" in between jobs is the assembly of a Honda SS50Z-K3 UK version.I thought I had everything ready for assembly, until I took the front fork legs apart. I decided to take them apart because the front fork oil that came out of the forks was very dirty and full of shiny metal parts. Furthermore, I ordered two aftermarket front fork tubes, but for some reason CMS is not as quick as usual, so waiting it is.
The damage on the forks can be seen as the dark spots where all the chrome is gone. The rest of the front fork parts are good, springs are plated, just like all other small bits and parts. The electrics of the SS50 is another thing that needs attention, the wiring harness is complete, but some electrical parts like the winker relay, winkers and the coil needed attention. Since some of those parts cannot be reached without taking the engine "out", I had to fix that first.
Overall not much work, in total 2 two 3 weeks, so mid to 3/4 of november, depening on the CMS package and a few other things, the bike will be ready, before the engine work starts of the CB72 and the dream. All (engine) parts are cleaned and waiting for assambly.
In the meantime I am fixing a few wiring issue's and make some extra ground wires for the steering tube, rear fender and engine.
Yesterday evening I made a lot of progress on the electrics, but there are some stubborn wiring issue's that have to be solved.
Like with the 450's I use only original wires taken from other old Honda wiring harnesses. In the past I ran into a box, filled with wire harnesses of Honda's from that era, and the best part was that I got it for free. Ok, it took ages to take the wire harnesses apart, and cutting out the bad parts, but now I have a box full of wires with the correct Honda colors, with the original bullet connectors and other plastic connectors as well.
Three out of four (original Stanley) winkers needed attention. Wires were "repaired" and replaced by fantasy colors, or the wrong shade color. Time to dig up the blue and orange wire bags and start soldering.
This is the last in between in between job, next is the dream and CB72 build.
The damage on the forks can be seen as the dark spots where all the chrome is gone. The rest of the front fork parts are good, springs are plated, just like all other small bits and parts. The electrics of the SS50 is another thing that needs attention, the wiring harness is complete, but some electrical parts like the winker relay, winkers and the coil needed attention. Since some of those parts cannot be reached without taking the engine "out", I had to fix that first.
Overall not much work, in total 2 two 3 weeks, so mid to 3/4 of november, depening on the CMS package and a few other things, the bike will be ready, before the engine work starts of the CB72 and the dream. All (engine) parts are cleaned and waiting for assambly.
In the meantime I am fixing a few wiring issue's and make some extra ground wires for the steering tube, rear fender and engine.
Yesterday evening I made a lot of progress on the electrics, but there are some stubborn wiring issue's that have to be solved.
Like with the 450's I use only original wires taken from other old Honda wiring harnesses. In the past I ran into a box, filled with wire harnesses of Honda's from that era, and the best part was that I got it for free. Ok, it took ages to take the wire harnesses apart, and cutting out the bad parts, but now I have a box full of wires with the correct Honda colors, with the original bullet connectors and other plastic connectors as well.
Three out of four (original Stanley) winkers needed attention. Wires were "repaired" and replaced by fantasy colors, or the wrong shade color. Time to dig up the blue and orange wire bags and start soldering.
This is the last in between in between job, next is the dream and CB72 build.
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boddy
Veteran Member
Your salvaged wire looks to be in very good shape. Did you clean the connectors and the clear plastic insulation. If so I would be interested in what you used to clean the wires and connectors.
jensen
Veteran Member
I wrote a comprehensive step by step process at the other forum, I'll see if I can copy from there. It's somewhere in the extensive CB450 K0 thread over there.
jensen
Veteran Member
The SS50Z K3 has an extra bar at the rear for mounting the winkers, and, just like the wiring of the handlebar switches, the wires of the winkers run through a pipe (see illustration from CMS website).
I don't like electrical issue's, just like everyone else, thus when I assemble a bike or moped, I take my precautions, by doing it right and check everything. And when I see risks for the future, due to bad design, or strange routing, I'm determined to find ways to make it better, at least less vulnerable.
The reason that the wires of the winkers were replaced by the PO's are probably due the above reasons, and even the wires that weren't replaced showed already damages (chafing spots).
In the above picture you can see three things, first, I did sand the edges of the bar as good as possible, and put adhesive shrink tube around the area's that are vulnerable. You can also see the beginning of a chafing on the orange wire, and at some point in time it will generate a short circuit. The choice is to replace that piece of wire, or make sure that the area will be protected in the future. I choose for protecting, since the chafing is just not deep enough to see the copper wires.
By adding a self-adhesive shrink tube around the area, the wires are protected for short circuit in the future. I also added a new bullet connector to the blue wire, because I changed the length of the wire. It's a lot of work but saves frustration in the future. Investing in good electrical tools and parts saves also a lot of trouble.
I don't like electrical issue's, just like everyone else, thus when I assemble a bike or moped, I take my precautions, by doing it right and check everything. And when I see risks for the future, due to bad design, or strange routing, I'm determined to find ways to make it better, at least less vulnerable.
The reason that the wires of the winkers were replaced by the PO's are probably due the above reasons, and even the wires that weren't replaced showed already damages (chafing spots).
In the above picture you can see three things, first, I did sand the edges of the bar as good as possible, and put adhesive shrink tube around the area's that are vulnerable. You can also see the beginning of a chafing on the orange wire, and at some point in time it will generate a short circuit. The choice is to replace that piece of wire, or make sure that the area will be protected in the future. I choose for protecting, since the chafing is just not deep enough to see the copper wires.
By adding a self-adhesive shrink tube around the area, the wires are protected for short circuit in the future. I also added a new bullet connector to the blue wire, because I changed the length of the wire. It's a lot of work but saves frustration in the future. Investing in good electrical tools and parts saves also a lot of trouble.
jensen
Veteran Member
After all issue's with wires are solved, it's time to make the connections
Starting with the neutral light
Secure the connections per function. The power goes in via the battery via a non-switched (red/white) wire, to the ignition switch, were is changes to a switched (red) wire. The red wire has a connector on both side of the wire harness, in this case I need the red wire in the headlight case.
To check if everything is connected the right way, I check with a lab power supply, adding a 6V voltage with current limitation.
Then turn the ignition switch "on" and the neutral light has to lighten up.
And it does ! This means that the whole power supply from the battery is in a healthy state, next thing are the winkers, which are also battery operated.
To keep track of the wires and keep things organized, connect one function at the time. I'll go to the next function after finishing. I often see that people start to connect all the wires, color to color, but that's a recipe for searching for gremlins afterward.
Winkers are flashing after connecting the light blue, orange and light green in the headlight case, and connecting the winker relay to the red wire in the frame.
The other side is working as well, next are the headlight. Since the SS50 feeds the light directly via the coil (AC), it's needed to connect the yellow wire to the positive of the power supply.
So, an extra 6V positive connected to the yellow wire in the frame, the light switched on, using the light switch at the handlebar.
Since the rear mudguard is still not mounted (waiting for some rubber parts in the same shipment as the front fork legs), I'm done for now.
In the meantime I'll fix the wiring of the taillight, because fantasy color wires with many "stitches" (I counted 3 per wire) are used.
Starting with the neutral light
Secure the connections per function. The power goes in via the battery via a non-switched (red/white) wire, to the ignition switch, were is changes to a switched (red) wire. The red wire has a connector on both side of the wire harness, in this case I need the red wire in the headlight case.
To check if everything is connected the right way, I check with a lab power supply, adding a 6V voltage with current limitation.
Then turn the ignition switch "on" and the neutral light has to lighten up.
And it does ! This means that the whole power supply from the battery is in a healthy state, next thing are the winkers, which are also battery operated.
To keep track of the wires and keep things organized, connect one function at the time. I'll go to the next function after finishing. I often see that people start to connect all the wires, color to color, but that's a recipe for searching for gremlins afterward.
Winkers are flashing after connecting the light blue, orange and light green in the headlight case, and connecting the winker relay to the red wire in the frame.
The other side is working as well, next are the headlight. Since the SS50 feeds the light directly via the coil (AC), it's needed to connect the yellow wire to the positive of the power supply.
So, an extra 6V positive connected to the yellow wire in the frame, the light switched on, using the light switch at the handlebar.
Since the rear mudguard is still not mounted (waiting for some rubber parts in the same shipment as the front fork legs), I'm done for now.
In the meantime I'll fix the wiring of the taillight, because fantasy color wires with many "stitches" (I counted 3 per wire) are used.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Very nice write-up and easy to follow great pics as usual.
Getting that supply of Honda original wire in correct colors was a real good purchase. The care you take with each system and component really does make dependability and longevity possible on these older machines.
It will be interesting to see what grounding additions you will do.
I recently noticed my 63 Benly actually only has one ground wire, from the headlamp bulb to the chrome trim ring. All other grounding relies on metal contact at mounting points. Since the bike is more than 60 years old, I have built an additional ground harness that goes to the negative battery terminal from headlamp, taillamp, winkers, gauge lamps and rectifier.
Getting that supply of Honda original wire in correct colors was a real good purchase. The care you take with each system and component really does make dependability and longevity possible on these older machines.
It will be interesting to see what grounding additions you will do.
I recently noticed my 63 Benly actually only has one ground wire, from the headlamp bulb to the chrome trim ring. All other grounding relies on metal contact at mounting points. Since the bike is more than 60 years old, I have built an additional ground harness that goes to the negative battery terminal from headlamp, taillamp, winkers, gauge lamps and rectifier.
jensen
Veteran Member
And finally, after 4 hours of work, I changed the wires of the taillight, improved the taillight, and added rubber suspension to keep the bulbs from blowing.
It's not an original Honda taillight, but a very popular replacement in the 70's / 80's, and it's called a "Portuguese" taillight. If you wanted to be part of the gang when you were 16, you needed one of these. The quality is terrible (mechanically), so it took some time to get it right.
And the added rubber suspension:
Normally I use Honda fasteners, but in this case I used a self-locking nut to adjust the freedom of movement.
Tomorrow I'll add the winkers, and wires to the frame, but still waiting for the CMS package to mount the rear fender.
It's not an original Honda taillight, but a very popular replacement in the 70's / 80's, and it's called a "Portuguese" taillight. If you wanted to be part of the gang when you were 16, you needed one of these. The quality is terrible (mechanically), so it took some time to get it right.
And the added rubber suspension:
Normally I use Honda fasteners, but in this case I used a self-locking nut to adjust the freedom of movement.
Tomorrow I'll add the winkers, and wires to the frame, but still waiting
for the CMS package to mount the rear fender.
raydike
Member
Nice result. I found some grey and black PVC cable sleeve in this Dutch shop: https://winkel.born2brom.nl/?s=kabelhoes&post_type=product
I bought some, good stuff.
I bought some, good stuff.
jensen
Veteran Member
Thanks, I'll check it out. Did you use it ? what is the quality ?
raydike
Member
yes, I've used some for my CB72, good stuff
jensen
Veteran Member
Rear fender mounted
Wiring finished
Electrical functions tested
Front fork rebuild
Front fork mounted
Front fender mounted
Coming day's job will be mounting the carburetor, add the carburator- front-, speedo- and clutch cable, mount the rear fork, shocks. Hopefully the week after that mount fuel tank, seat and start the engine (if I don't have to work abroad).
Wiring finished
Electrical functions tested
Front fork rebuild
Front fork mounted
Front fender mounted
Coming day's job will be mounting the carburetor, add the carburator- front-, speedo- and clutch cable, mount the rear fork, shocks. Hopefully the week after that mount fuel tank, seat and start the engine (if I don't have to work abroad).
jensen
Veteran Member
Speedo cable mounted, rear fork mounted and carburetor jetting sorted out and bolted to the bike. The carburetor was a mess, lot's of wrong and damaged parts. Another night invested in fixing a pubescent destroyed part.
What a difference between the CD50H and this SS50. The electrics, engine and carburetor of the CD50 (my own, bought when I got 16) were in a healthy state, compared by this SS50, when multiple PO's.
For some reason I couldn't find the gasket between the cylinder head and the carburetor manifold in my stash, so in the meantime I used a thick (viton) O-ring to seal the transition between both. In the picture it seems that the manifold is angled towards the head, but I can assure you both surfaces are parallel.
Unfortunately I have to go abroad for work again, this project is tougher then expected and is taking much more time then planned. This is mainly due to the bad state of some functional groups like the electrics, lights, front fork and wrong hardware (which are now replaced by the correct hardware). I planned 4 hours / one night for all electrics including lighting based on the experience with the CD50H, but it took 4 evenings to sort out and fix all the bad parts / connectors and routing errors. I have at least two complete NOS wire harnesses for this bike, but I like to be challenged a bit. I also didn't expect to completely rebuild the front forks, and waiting for CMS parts for the rebuild. I also need to replace some hardware the coming weeks, like the nuts on the cylinder head, three out of four should be acorn nuts, only the right lower side is correct.
What a difference between the CD50H and this SS50. The electrics, engine and carburetor of the CD50 (my own, bought when I got 16) were in a healthy state, compared by this SS50, when multiple PO's.
For some reason I couldn't find the gasket between the cylinder head and the carburetor manifold in my stash, so in the meantime I used a thick (viton) O-ring to seal the transition between both. In the picture it seems that the manifold is angled towards the head, but I can assure you both surfaces are parallel.
Unfortunately I have to go abroad for work again, this project is tougher then expected and is taking much more time then planned. This is mainly due to the bad state of some functional groups like the electrics, lights, front fork and wrong hardware (which are now replaced by the correct hardware). I planned 4 hours / one night for all electrics including lighting based on the experience with the CD50H, but it took 4 evenings to sort out and fix all the bad parts / connectors and routing errors. I have at least two complete NOS wire harnesses for this bike, but I like to be challenged a bit. I also didn't expect to completely rebuild the front forks, and waiting for CMS parts for the rebuild. I also need to replace some hardware the coming weeks, like the nuts on the cylinder head, three out of four should be acorn nuts, only the right lower side is correct.
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ballbearian
Veteran Member
I'm surprised that intake pipe actually takes a flat gasket, most all my singles have an Oring groove.
Since I don't replate anything, I just spray clear caliper paint on de-rusted choke levers, it works great.
Looks great, too bad work gets in the way.
Since I don't replate anything, I just spray clear caliper paint on de-rusted choke levers, it works great.
Looks great, too bad work gets in the way.
jensen
Veteran Member
It's growing
Not expensive here
Not expensive here
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Your bikes are so well behaved. It must have taken years to teach them to self assemble correctly. A critical concept that evolutionists necessarily rely on.
My bikes are mostly 'lost cause' assemblies. but I search carefully for signs of willingness for eventual redemption.
My bikes are mostly 'lost cause' assemblies. but I search carefully for signs of willingness for eventual redemption.
jensen
Veteran Member
Got this from a local marketplace today, it doesn't get more vintage ! Nice small saddlebags in the original box for my CB72 or CB450 K0. I have no idea how this ended up in the Netherlands.
I will say that it does look out of place seeing an English language printed box in your country. At least it isn't from too far back in time, zip codes were in use when it was printed.
jensen
Veteran Member
Since we're a small country and depending on international trading, English is our second language, so the language on the box is something we're used to. It's the size and style of those little saddlebags that are very uncommon here. There are plenty Krausers and other German saddlebags, mostly for BMW's from that era.
The zip-codes were introduced in 1963 in the US, these bags are from 1960s / 70s and do fit perfectly in the bikes from that era. Another brand that is known is Bates, but also very uncommon here. I also have a set of Buco twinmasters for my dream, got them from the US in a time that prices and shipping were affordable, and I think I'm one of few who will have those bags mounted to the dream (I also got a Buco windshield for the dream, to dress the bike up US style
).
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jensen
Veteran Member
I might get some time to work on my CB72'66, when it's not too heavy for me.
I broke one of my vertebra's, axial, luckily not radial. It happened in Germany when hiking and fell off stone stairs. And then they say that motorcycling is dangerous.
Six weeks no riding, at least
I broke one of my vertebra's, axial, luckily not radial. It happened in Germany when hiking and fell off stone stairs. And then they say that motorcycling is dangerous.
Six weeks no riding, at least
This happened recently?I might get some time to work on my CB72'66, when it's not too heavy for me.
I broke one of my vertebra's, axial, luckily not radial. It happened in Germany when hiking and fell off stone stairs. And then they say that motorcycling is dangerous.
Six weeks no riding, at least
jensen
Veteran Member
Last Saturday
Well, I hope it heals quickly. That'll teach you to do something other than ride motorcycles.Last Saturday
Take good care of that Jensen
jensen
Veteran Member
Take good care of that Jensen
Yes, I will, that means not working, no riding, only very short walks, no sports, no hiking. Actually, I have to rest for at least 8 days, then go back to the hospital for another CT-scan to see if it is stable. If not, they have to fixate, meaning wrenching.
Here's prayers for stable
raydike
Member
Oef, veel sterkte Jensen, gelukkig redelijk goed afgelopen.
jensen
Veteran Member
Thanks everybody, it will be a painful journey to recovery, physically and mentally.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
So sorry. I'll add the physical and mental regeneration to my prayers for you my friend. I believe you will redeem the time of this life detour.
kbongos
Veteran Member
This is supposed to be from a motorcycle accident Good news is it's not. I messed up my back once about 20 years ago, exit from a motor boat pulled tube. Hit the water hard, then two days later sneezed and something snapped. Next I discover I cannot crawl under the car and take an oil filter off. Luckily I recovered in short time, but I was thinking, this better not be permanent or I'm not a happy camper.
Best of luck with recovery, I would bet on you winning this. Looking at the CT scan picture, I think the break is on the part to the left of the yellow cross hair, where the top looks less than flat. You got me looking at internet pictures of the spine, an interesting construction. I've known a few people that have gotten extra hardware put in their back, they are really good at it these days, but hopefully it does not come to that - less is better.
Now I know this accident is probably not age related, you are a little younger than me, and I believe you are very healthy. I'll be 64 in Sept., but, as these things go, age is a factor. I was thinking a site like vintagehumans.com would be a hit. Discuss how to care for and rebuild broken and rusty body parts.
I have recently broken a body part, a molar tooth split down the center from biting on something hard. I had some serious painful headaches the first few days. I've been babying it and it's feeling good now. I suppose I should rush in and have it pulled out or replaced with a implant, but for now I want to avoid aggressive dental procedures and see how it goes.
I picked some Dentek Temparin repair kit at walmart for about $4, and jam some of this white putty in there to try and repair/protect it. It does get somewhat hard, but obviously that split is gonna flex and it does loosen up, good for up to a week. Maybe I'll try some JB weld
Good news is it's not. I messed up my back once about 20 years ago, exit from a motor boat pulled tube. Hit the water hard, then two days later sneezed and something snapped. Next I discover I cannot crawl under the car and take an oil filter off. Luckily I recovered in short time, but I was thinking, this better not be permanent or I'm not a happy camper.Best of luck with recovery, I would bet on you winning this. Looking at the CT scan picture, I think the break is on the part to the left of the yellow cross hair, where the top looks less than flat. You got me looking at internet pictures of the spine, an interesting construction. I've known a few people that have gotten extra hardware put in their back, they are really good at it these days, but hopefully it does not come to that - less is better.
Now I know this accident is probably not age related, you are a little younger than me, and I believe you are very healthy. I'll be 64 in Sept., but, as these things go, age is a factor. I was thinking a site like vintagehumans.com would be a hit. Discuss how to care for and rebuild broken and rusty body parts.
I have recently broken a body part, a molar tooth split down the center from biting on something hard. I had some serious painful headaches the first few days. I've been babying it and it's feeling good now. I suppose I should rush in and have it pulled out or replaced with a implant, but for now I want to avoid aggressive dental procedures and see how it goes.
I picked some Dentek Temparin repair kit at walmart for about $4, and jam some of this white putty in there to try and repair/protect it. It does get somewhat hard, but obviously that split is gonna flex and it does loosen up, good for up to a week. Maybe I'll try some JB weld