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A solid maybe. Which is enough for a plan.

I’d say if you have to get any machining done on the head anyway and are able to swing the funds, go for it.

It requires a channel to be milled out of the cam chain tunnel.

Edit:how re the spark plug threads? I had timeserts pre-emptively installed on my last head.
 
Ribrickulous said:
I’d say if you have to get any machining done on the head anyway and are able to swing the funds, go for it.

It requires a channel to be milled out of the cam chain tunnel.

Edit:how re the spark plug threads? I had timeserts pre-emptively installed on my last head.
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I hadn’t looked at the plug thread until you asked. One is fine. The other is going to need something done. The threads just crumble off in several places.

I will have a valve job regardless. So the head is going to the machine shop anyway. Might as well while it’s off.
 
I’ll clean up the cylinders and head and take it in. Then go from there.

I imagine I’ll get new valves anyway. But I’ll have them check the guides and seats and get those done if needed as well.

Given I’m expecting to anyway, it’s not really a huge factor to get whatever I want done it there. Stock or upgrades I’m in for some expense.
 
I have never yet installed a KA slipper cam chain tensioner assembly,but heard good things about them,especially folks who race the CB350 engine.
I have replaced the stock rollers with fresh,quality new(either OEM rubber or steel 'toothed' rollers)and new good quality bearings along with a new cam chain and they work very good.
The stock cam chain tensioner parts have merit. (y)
Many OEM cam chain tensioners have problems because these engines are 40+ yrs. old and haven't had regular maintenance,plus the majority of the tensioners I've seen have not been adjusted when they get loose:keep them adjusted and they will last.

I see the engine number starts with 3....... which makes your CL engine a K3.
The k3's had started to have the better parts to upgrade them;you may want to see if you already have the larger oil pump installed,similar to all the K4's.
 
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bilbikek411 said:
I have never yet installed a KA slipper cam chain tensioner assembly,but heard good things about them,especially folks who race the CB350 engine.
I have replaced the stock rollers with fresh,quality new(either OEM rubber or steel 'toothed' rollers)and new good quality bearings along with a new cam chain and they work very good.
The stock cam chain tensioner parts have merit. (y)
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Well I already a NOS tensioner and wheels. I can’t seem to find the KA tensioner. Yet. I take it the company that made them is gone?

Wouldn’t the steel ones be noisier?
 
teebo said:
Well I already a NOS tensioner and wheels. I can’t seem to find the KA tensioner. Yet. I take it the company that made them is gone?

Wouldn’t the steel ones be noisier?
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maybe just a little more 'whirring' sound.. no problem,imo.
 
bilbikek411 said:
maybe just a little more 'whirring' sound.. no problem,imo.
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Are they better? Just last longer?

I’m not stressing over the decision. Most seem just fine with the stock roller for a street bike. Not like I’m going to be around another 50 to complain they wore out. Or 30 for that matter.
 
teebo said:
Are they better? Just last longer?

I’m not stressing over the decision. Most seem just fine with the stock roller for a street bike. Not like I’m going to be around another 50 to complain they wore out. Or 30 for that matter.
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The NOS you have are fresh,pliable rubber and will last many 1000's of miles because the rubber will absorb shock. The rubber gets old and it chips and chunks apart as it loses it's absorbent quality.
 
teebo said:
Well I already a NOS tensioner and wheels. I can’t seem to find the KA tensioner. Yet. I take it the company that made them is gone?

Wouldn’t the steel ones be noisier?
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I bought one in 2010 from Bore-Tech (a company now out of business), then another one from Todd Henning Racing in about 2019. I don't think he is in the parts business anymore. I found this supplier who shows 8 pieces left on hand. The site shows the dimensions for machining the chain tunnel for clearance. The price has gone up some, but not bad for 14 years of inflation. That said, just the tensioner would cost more than you paid for the engine you just bought. I may be wrong, but I would guess when these last 8 pieces are gone, there are no more to be had. Click the link I posted and scroll down the page to see the KA Tensioner and the machining dimensions.
 
I'd look at Chris Schumann's for valves and guides. Thread repair too.
www.facebook.com

Schumann Motor Works | Milwaukie OR

Schumann Motor Works, Milwaukie, Oregon. 630 likes · 23 talking about this · 5 were here. Specializing in vintage motorcycle cylinder head services and custom valve train components.
www.facebook.com www.facebook.com
 
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Here I am, lying abed enjoying my morning coffee (is it a warm bed and hot woman? Hot coffee and warm…? (Gonna stop while I’m ahead)) catching up with you all here.

This looks like a fun project to get into! Traveling again tomorrow but will be back at the pumps early next year.

Have tinkered with the pump design for more efficiency and higher pressure.

Re aero engines, Franklin made flat 4-cyl certified engines and for kit/plan builds, Subaru conversions are also viable. I seem to recall there are Corsair flat 6’s in the 100 hp range. Have also seen BMW boxer twin conversions, $$$$$. The main concern with conversions is the dual ignition/magneto ethos. In a electrical or single mag fail, the engine still runs.
 
The main concern with conversions is the dual ignition/magneto ethos. In a electrical or single mag fail, the engine still runs.
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Yes, that's what Colin told me. He had to have his build inspected at each stage by some official, to ensure that it was airworthy and met all the regulations.
 
The company that made the KA slipper went out of business a number of years ago.
Plus 1 on sending the head to Chris Schumann. You probably should determine the cam you want first as some of the ones from Mega Cycle require different valve springs which may require some machine work to fit.
 
Having a spare engine to play with is always a great thing.
Having a cheap spare engine in pretty good condition even better as you can do things you wouldn't normally consider (it's how I started making XS 800's out of XS650's)
I had access to boring bars when I started on them then got a few CB360's and found Suzuki pistons fitted with minimal work (very cheap conversion)
CB350 can't go as far as Yamaha 650 or CB360 but it's still a load of fun.
I haven't looked at it for a few years but I did some 'experimenting' on a CB350 top case half to see just how far it could be bored if bores were offset.
Stud spacing is a bit 'strange' on 350 so bores have to move 'diagonally' to get maximum capacity.
Pretty sure you don't want to go there but I can throw in some experience on 350 motor mods
:unsure:
Oh, on a street motor, I wouldn't waste money on oversize exhaust valves unless your having head ported (not sure I would use them even if ported?)
I would use the oversize intakes though.
The various different cam chain tensioner rollers are made like derailleur rollers, fit into chain links with stubby teeth.
Not sure steel is really needed as anodised aluminium or even nylon seem to last quite well on bicycles. (admittedly without the temperature variations)
As you have the arm with damaged roller, you can remove pivot pin to experiment
 
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I’m starting to think one is never done buying tools. Ordered the tool to get the valve springs off.

Bought a media blaster cabinet large enough for the engine parts. Beats doing it out in my driveway. Just using soda or walnut. Harbor Freight class. Works well. But I need the optional dust vacuum. Gets cloudy fast.

Ordered the first part. The guts for the clutch adjuster were missing. There happened to be a good one eBay. Best not to dally when there weren’t a lot available.

How far can one bore by mere mortal means? Not looking to max it out, just curious.
 
teebo said:
I’m starting to think one is never done buying tools. Ordered the tool to get the valve springs off.

Bought a media blaster cabinet large enough for the engine parts. Beats doing it out in my driveway. Just using soda or walnut. Harbor Freight class. Works well. But I need the optional dust vacuum. Gets cloudy fast.

Ordered the first part. The guts for the clutch adjuster were missing. There happened to be a good one eBay. Best not to dally when there weren’t a lot available.

How far can one bore by mere mortal means? Not looking to max it out, just curious.
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You mean large bore pistons ?
 
teebo said:
I’m starting to think one is never done buying tools.
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There never seems to be a big enough garage or enough tools which begs the question of how we managed to repair our old junk cars and bikes back in the day with only a few hand tools under a shade tree if we were lucky. :unsure:
 
Congrats on the project. I love the 350 because it is so simple to work on.

My personal preference for cam chain tensioners is the rubber roller and have had good experience with the cheap aftermarket ones available on eBay.

Also a fan of stock piston and camshaft for ease of rebuild and bang for the buck, and the little Honda hauls me around just fine with the above combination + stock oil pump setup and points ignition.

Chris Schumann valves have served me well and worth it. I'm still on original seats (reground) and guides, but if your wallet is open...
 
If you really want to over bore the engine, first find the pistons and rings. Any machinist can determine the bore if the new pistons are in hand.

I can't recall if you have a quality battery impact wrench, but if you don't that's the next step. With one you can take the engine completely apart without building an engine mount to hold it in place.
 
wentwest said:
If you really want to over bore the engine, first find the pistons and rings. Any machinist can determine the bore if the new pistons are in hand.

I can't recall if you have a quality battery impact wrench, but if you don't that's the next step. With one you can take the engine completely apart without building an engine mount to hold it in place.
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I have the electric impact wrench. I don’t use it much since I’m so incredibly strong.
 
I am totally striking out on getting these old gaskets off. Holy cow. Been trying tips I’ve read. These things are hard and stuck on well.
 
teebo said:
I am totally striking out on getting these old gaskets off. Holy cow. Been trying tips I’ve read. These things are hard and stuck on well.
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Something I've been playing with that might help. A couple thread concerning carb mentioned using steam for cleaning and checking passages. I bought this unit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWHG2NHB?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title and tried it on some pieces. Can't find the pictures but it did a decent job of cleaning the gasket residue off a cylinder, not sure about the hardened gasket material because I don't have any pieces handy to work with.
 
LongDistanceRider said:
Something I've been playing with that might help. A couple thread concerning carb mentioned using steam for cleaning and checking passages. I bought this unit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWHG2NHB?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title and tried it on some pieces. Can't find the pictures but it did a decent job of cleaning the gasket residue off a cylinder, not sure about the hardened gasket material because I don't have any pieces handy to work with.
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That looks interesting all on its own too. I was wondering about heat.

I got the ones off the cylinder stack by just taking my time. The ones on the head pieces are like scraping plastic.

Tried all the various chemicals and letting oil soak in for a while. Marginal effect.
 
Nothing beats a razor blade and time.

Though… I am a fan of the roloc discs and a die grinder for final cleanup, but be very careful and if possibly do it outside. LOTS of dust.

Used both for all the gaskets on my last build and thankfully no leaks.
 
Ribrickulous said:
Nothing beats a razor blade and time.

Though… I am a fan of the roloc discs and a die grinder for final cleanup, but be very careful and if possibly do it outside. LOTS of dust.

Used both for all the gaskets on my last build and thankfully no leaks.
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I typically use a wood cutters chisel. I have better luck with that for leverage and not gouging the aluminum. Normally that works well.

I’ll win in the end, but it’s pissing me off. Ha.
 
teebo said:
I typically use a wood cutters chisel. I have better luck with that for leverage and not gouging the aluminum. Normally that works well.

I’ll win in the end, but it’s pissing me off. Ha.
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I also use an old wood chisel;a little at a time.
A fresh surface along with new gasket and you'll never have that one give you problems again.
 
I have found Sea Foam works well for me if I soak some cloth and lay it on the gasket and then cover with cling wrap to keep if from evaporating and let sit overnight. Can take several applications over several days but better than gouging up the sealing surfaces.
 
RobMan said:
I have found Sea Foam works well for me if I soak some cloth and lay it on the gasket and then cover with cling wrap to keep if from evaporating and let sit overnight. Can take several applications over several days but better than gouging up the sealing surfaces.
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I’ll give it a shot. I have some Sea foam.

It’s just the upper head gaskets. They are bond to the aluminum quite well.
 
Jays100 said:
I use my propane sweat solder torch to heat/sear the stuck gasket remnants. They come right off.
Note care is needed but hey, you’re incredibly caring, and strong, and forgetful, and, and.
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You know, I literally thought about doing that yesterday. Then decided discretion was in order.

But if those gaskets keep it up…
 
teebo said:
You know, I literally thought about doing that yesterday. Then decided discretion was in order.

But if those gaskets keep it up…
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Some of those feel like they get as hard as the aluminum underneath,which makes it difficult to keep from gouging into the machined surface underneath.
 
bilbikek411 said:
Some of those feel like they get as hard as the aluminum underneath,which makes it difficult to keep from gouging into the machined surface underneath.
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Ya. Which limits how aggressive I get.

But… I did just use a torch on that metal plate sandwiched between gaskets. Worked like champ. Still not convinced I’ll try that on aluminum.
 
teebo said:
Ya. Which limits how aggressive I get.

But… I did just use a torch on that metal plate sandwiched between gaskets. Worked like champ. Still not convinced I’ll try that on aluminum.
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It helps to have the wood chisel;gotta lightly,carefully sharpen it a couple times doing those type antique gaskets.. :whistle:
 
This type China screwdriver works ok also.
The 'steel' is soft so I can clamp it in a vise and sharpen it with a good hand file.
The square shank allows me to press down flat on it in different places,to gain a good purchase on the work.
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