What? Throttle shaft seals are just soft felt to help protect the shafts from being destroyed from dirt. They are dust seals. Think about it. If they were intended to prevent outside air coming in then why aren't they rubber or o-rings?
Good point, did not think about this. Grab a white business card and spray some contact cleaner on it. Run it through each set of points multiple times until it the paper comes up clean. Then hold the points open and blow with compressed air.
I would like to get one as part of my garage so any recommendations are appreciated. I have a desire to make this more of a part of my day to day but I don't have a ton of $$$$ to throw at this atm but I don't want to be cheap.
I was wondering if this could have some relevance along with them still being misadjusted so I'm going to clean them (which is why I suggested it but I appreciate the nod) but imagine my surprise if someone said "Well on this particular model the points just loved oil so Honda..."
Heard
Yes, that's what I was referring to so you can also swap plug wires between sides to see if the dead cylinder follows the swap. Basically what you've done is changed which points and coil are powering the dead cylinder with the points and coil that was previously actively powering the plug in the cylinder that runs, to eliminate the plug, points and coil as culprits.
I've read this before but until I saw the picture Tom shared, I didn't realize the left could/should be oriented the other way. I'll do that today too. PO had the points cover off and the daughter selling the bike said she never heard it run so my guess is he was messing with it and couldn't figure it out
I would never have known or thought tho look to see if they were JIS or not. Thank you for pointing that out. I have a set of allen key bolts that could go in but I'll have to see if they provide any more wiggle room
I'll take the time to move it over. I've heard of these screws shorting out on the cover but not the wire. Good to know for the future.
It's actually the size of the terminal on the wire itself, which is why the orientation is important. But, you were running it with the points cover off so the test will be if it still fires on both once the cover is back on.
What I'm hearing is the right cylinder (seemingly based on the second video) is trying to run late in the video, but either the pilot jet is still clogged a little or the sync is way off. It revved up high to begin with because you've been trying to get it to idle on just one cylinder and thinking the idle speed still wasn't high enough, so as you noticed you had to dial it back down a lot from where it was once both cylinders are at least partially contributing.
I can take the carbs apart and inspect them. is there a better bench synching technique than using a wire under the throttle valve? I also do not have a carb sync tool or gauges so I'll have to get those at some point but figured I should let everyone know what my limitations are atm
I asked about compression in post 42, previous page, but either he doesn't yet have a gauge or hasn't checked it yet. Absolutely a possibility.
Hot dog, I never thought about this. We have a robust hardware store near us that rented out all kinds of tools and I can't believe it hadn't crossed my mind that AZ or O'Rielly's would also have the same program. I have one a stone's throw away from my house so that'll be the route i take, thank you for the suggestion
Now this points to float level issues.
Well isn't that shocking... seems the leopard's stripes have been the same all along.
Hard to believe isn't it?
And just based on PJ's statement, it would seem CMC has had that agenda all along. And apparently not something he cooked up after realizing some early success, but probably from the very beginning. Which to me makes it all the more deplorable, leveraging a forum member's generous efforts into a large profit margin for yourself under the guise of helping young vintage Honda owners. Uh-huh.
One thing you need to remember is these adjustments are a regular maintenance item at much smaller intervals than modern bikes need. From the CB360 owner's manual
Yes, because retarded or advanced timing, as well as sloppy advancer operation, will directly affect each cylinder's performance.
@ancientdad My understanding of this procedure was based on the fact that we were still on the hunt for compression being part of the problem here. I may be misunderstanding though and wouldn't be the first time. With both reading 160, I'm a little hesitant to readjust just to readjust if this method was so that compression would equalize.
I didn't re-read and see that, but PJ isn't wrong about slightly looser valve adjustment allowing the valves to more fully close and maybe "clean up" the seats a little allowing the compression to rise a bit (along with a minute change in valve timing likely helping). But, at 160 each I'd doubt compression was an issue.
So I went through the carbs and took out the primary discharge nozzle which was pretty gunked up. I decided to just go through everything with a few small detail brushes and slapped em back together. Today I got the bike to run but under an interesting set of circumstances.
I don't want to chalk it up to figured out quite yet, but yes. A victory in the right direction I'd say!
His comment was probably about an older model like a 175/350/DOHC 450 that did not have both carbs attached to a rack with combined linkage, they had separate cables to each carb and that was how you had to sync them.
If you had the carbs apart and cleaned them, did you remove the throttle plates? If so, it's not hard to get one throttle plate off center slightly which could allow a large gap underneath and drastically affect your idle speed on that cylinder along with the vacuum reading. If you didn't, perhaps the PO did at some point.
! Decided to drain what I had left in the tank (not much) clean out the petcock (had gunk that could have restricted flow), added fuel, replaced the oil, change out the fuel filters for just straight fuel line, and while the electric starter still doesn't sound happy (whining) I was able to kick start the bike easily after a few prime kicks and with choke, and it ran up the road and back after giving it time to warm up.
It could be the clutch slipping, and if the adjustment at the lever is too tight (not enough free movement in the lever before starting to disengage the clutch) it might only need to be adjusted properly.
Hard to say without seeing it, but in the video it is absolutely slipping. I don't recall the starter clutch being worked on in any of your posts, maybe I missed it.
