You can install 8) 6mm timeserts/female Helicoils into the top of the edge of the wood sides of the box for a hold-down lid, Lol.Time sert kit came it a bit later than I was hoping, so fabbed up support brackets for a rear box.
Hoping this pushes it over the edge into “must have” for someone on Facebook marketplace come spring.
View attachment 41045
View attachment 41046
I would be looking at the needle jet & needle,might be too rich.Good news - the timesert worked like a charm.
I did keep the head on, and just went two or three turns at a time once the larger part of the tap hit the head, then pulled back and cleaned. Rinse and repeat until it was done.
Probably about 30 mins all together. It really is a brilliant concept.
Bad news - same symptoms.
I’m starting to think that the main jet might be a little too big and wetting the plug as I come to a stop? It doesn’t look obscenely rich when I pull it, but that is after a necessary idle (no clutch = no legit plug chops).
OEM 70cc is:
38 idle/88 main/11.1mm float
Idle screw 1-1/4 turns out
Mix screw 2-1/2-3 turns out
My 89cc is:
40 idle/92 main/15mm float
Idle screw 1-1/4 turn out
Mix screw 1/4 turn out
The idle circuit is acting rich, as it really “wants” to be fully close when sitting on the lift puttering away. If I put a 38 idle in, the plug comes out white and wants to die without choke, even 3-4 turns out.
You can install 8) 6mm timeserts/female Helicoils into the top of the edge of the wood sides of the box for a hold-down lid, Lol.
Although closed,someone could rip that box off of it thinking it's full of good stuff.
I would be looking at the needle jet & needle,might be too rich.
Did you say you re-installed the OEM brass ?
Don't under-estimate the performance of the stock carburetor.The sheng Wei carbs sold by dr atv are considered to be the “good” aftermarket carbs. I don’t think the original would be able to accommodate the big bore kit
If you can port/match it to the size of your engine's manifold.Looking for an S90 carb might not be a bad idea at all
The -Ground/earth path to each blinker;take a look to see if your main harness frame ground wires have solid continuity and the path which grounds the socket on each one of the blinker lights.Does anyone know what might cause a blinker to stay on solid?
The right side winks as normal, albeit with the low voltage at idle it gets about 4-5 winks and then goes solid. Picks up again once the engine revs up.
Left side will only blink when the engine is revving relatively hard. At idle it’s usually solid immediately unless I just came off a long high rev stretch.
I believe all the contacts are fine on both the front and back. A bit odd.
Check the grounds first as @bilbikek411 advised and then check the bullet connectors are all connected properly with no corrosion. Last thing and not likely is swap the bulbs from left to right and see if the problem moves to the other side just in case there is a problem with a bulb by some chance.Does anyone know what might cause a blinker to stay on solid?
The right side winks as normal, albeit with the low voltage at idle it gets about 4-5 winks and then goes solid. Picks up again once the engine revs up.
Left side will only blink when the engine is revving relatively hard. At idle it’s usually solid immediately unless I just came off a long high rev stretch.
I believe all the contacts are fine on both the front and back. A bit odd.