1974 CB360 K0, Oil in points housing

CSL360

New Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2026
Total Posts
3
Total likes
0
Location
Oregon
Recently picked up a 1974 CB360 KO and have been working through a few small issues. Im pretty new to motorcycles so I wanted to get some input before I began to tearing deeper into things.
Here's where i'm currently at:
-Bikes runs and rides fine once warmed
- Cold starts have been slowly worsening, have to give some throttle to get it to turn over and it'll die if I don't hold it for a few seconds
- After a couple days of sitting it takes a bit of throttle to start and produces a fair amount of smoke until its able to hold idle
-After riding it will start up on the first kick when sat for well over an hour

So far I've found oil in the points housing (good amount around the two rubber pieces in the top corners), and the cover seeps a few drops per day.
I was thinking the cam seal was leaking into the points which is affecting ignition but I wanted to get a more experienced opinion before I do anything.
Appreciate any help, thanks.
IMG_3052.jpegIMG_2877.jpeg
 
The oil could be getting past either of the rubber plugs or the cam seal. It wouldn't be difficult to try some Hondabond on the rubber plugs or maybe put in new rubber plugs. If those stop leaking and there's still oil showing up, then you can expect that the camshaft seal needs to be replaced, but it may not need to be addressed immediately This was happening on my 360G before I rebuilt the top end.

Have you looked at your sparkplugs? If they are getting fouled it could contribute to the hard starting. Then the question would turn to why the plugs are fouling.

It looks like your points leads are routed well, sometimes they can short on the cover when they have been disturbed by a previous owner. The contacts look clean on the points, i.e., no oil visible, so I wouldn't expect the excess oil to disrupt ignition.

How long have you had it? Did you ever check the compression? I'm not concerned, but it can be an indicator of the condition and state of tune. Have you checked/set valves and timing or are they as delivered to you?
 
My left plug has a little carbon build up, and the right was darker and had a little oil around the base and staining on the threads, but neither were heavily fouled. Ive only had the bike for about a month and haven't checked compression or valves, the bike is as it was delivered. I'd think compression should be fine as there hasn't been any issues running and there's good resistance when kicking.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
My left plug has a little carbon build up, and the right was darker and had a little oil around the base and staining on the threads, but neither were heavily fouled. Ive only had the bike for about a month and haven't checked compression or valves, the bike is as it was delivered. I'd think compression should be fine as there hasn't been any issues running and there's good resistance when kicking.
Regardless what you might think the compression would be, the valves need to be adjusted since you have no idea the last time they were checked and a tight valve will end up with you pulling the head to replace a burned valve if you wait too long. If you're encountering running issues, "good resistance when kicking" or "it pops my finger off the plug hole" might be okay for educated guesses but if there's a 20% difference between cylinders that would affect low speed or idle running, and neither of those "tests" will reveal it.
 
Very doubtful it's the rocker shaft plugs, unless engine breather is blocked there is virtually no pressure behind them.
Cam seal most common problem, either hard or damaged, worn out (dry and stuck to cam then got torn)
At least it's an easy fix but you need to be VERY CAREFUL not to break points cam extension off end of cam.
Personally, I wouldn't risk it and would remove and re-seal rocker cover, you don't need to remove cam or mess with cam timing, no need to remove carbs or exhaust either.
Even today when I haven't done one for 12~13 years it would take less than 4 hrs.
I remember rushing engine fitting on my CJ390 once, managed to trap engine breather hose between swing arm and crankcase.
in about 20 miles oil was leaking out of every seal, including kickstart shaft so it's easily done.
Fixing wasn't as easy, had to remove all the engine bolts to release breather, tried swing arm bolt first but that didn't work (I forget why, it was about 35~40 years ago)
 
Back
Top Bottom