Painting ....

moaman

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Sep 19, 2023
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Location
Blenheim, NZ
While doing a CD 175 , I have been using small spray cans of paint , but I'm not really happy about the finish and the paint seems "soft" and not very durable. Just wondering what others use.
 
I've had acceptable results using aerosol car paints, which I then clear coated using a 2K aerosol lacquer which is very hard and is fuel proof.

It is important to allow the colour coat to fully harden ie all solvent gone, before doing the 2K lacquer. This stuff responds well to being flatted back and polished, although you can get very shiny results straight out of the can. It does release some sort of cyanide, so a mask should be worn, best done out in the open air.

This is my CL175 tank, painted using car paints, flatted back ready for lacquer. I also applied the 'Preserve Nature' warning sticker at this point, so that it was covered by the lacquer.

VW5IJLI.jpg


Same tank after 2K lacquer

WqTlfbi.jpg


Important to leave bare metal around the filler neck, otherwise fuel creeps under the paint layers and lifts it.
 
Here's a K4 tank that I painted, cheated using red pin stripe tape, hence the colour mismatch. Shows the 'Preserve Nature' sticker under the lacquer. Needs some flatting back and polishing to smooth off the slight 'orange peel ' in places. Still think it's OK for an amateur job, done out in the garden.

gf0uNQa.jpg
 
Here's a K4 tank that I painted, cheated using red pin stripe tape, hence the colour mismatch. Shows the 'Preserve Nature' sticker under the lacquer. Needs some flatting back and polishing to smooth off the slight 'orange peel ' in places. Still think it's OK for an amateur job, done out in the garden.

gf0uNQa.jpg
I think it looks better than OK !!! really looks good to me.
 
I'm trying out a 2K spray can of solid color mixed by the autobody supplier I use.

I shot a tank in Spray Max 2K high gloss white which came out very nice until I messed up getting aggressive with my 7" polisher.

If you are going to the effort of prepping and painting then getting products from a proper autobody supplier is well worth it for the quality and compatibility.

As an example the high build primer I use is sandable in 30 minutes, top coat in 30 minutes, additional coats in 5 minutes.
 
Painting is all about prep and practice......This "flame-job" is ALL "rattle-can" work (to match the purchased flame helmet)..... Paint not buffed, just shot until "wet".....
fun size.png

Yes, that is/was me in the sleeveless shirt..........
 
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