If you mean with respect to removing them for replacement, since there's no concern about ruining the bearing due to driving them by the inner race, you can simply drive them out using a drift on the inner race (slip the inner spacer between the bearings off to the side a little), or you can pick up a large concrete anchor, tighten it into the bearing center and drive it out from the other side that way.
Good point Bill, the sprocket side does require the threaded retainer to be removed first.
Yes, on the back. But the front also is unclear. It appears that the speedometer driven gear is held in my a spring roll pin, but I'm not sure what is holding in the driving gear. And on the opposite side, not sure the best way to get it out. Is the piece with the four lugs on it to drive the speedometer gear integral to the bearing, or a separate piece?
Looking at the parts fiche, I was expecting a metal plate with 3 screws retaining it above the bearing but I guess in this case my memory is of a different model. The speedo drive gear is a separate piece and not part of the bearing.
Seems like I've tried to get one out with the seal in place and it caused difficulty, but it's been far too long to remember clearly. It isn't something you have to do very often at all.
Pay someone, LOL. I'm just not good with lacing wheels, only done it a couple times in my entire life. But, we have more than a few here who will weigh in with suggestions, @ballbearian comes to mind right away because he worked at bicycle shops for years.
Looks like a decent rim.. what brand are those spokes ?
Whatever 4into1 sells. They are zinc plated. Rims are "Rising Sun" brand.
Perhaps this will help? https://www.vintagehondatwins.com/f...building-spoke-lacing-symmetric-pattern.9913/
I've got a set to be laced, same rims and spokes, just haven't got around to it yet.
Tom,I like OEM and Buchanan spokes because they are a hard-type/strong steel and can be tensioned strongly;I also like they are the proper flange size where they fill the holes in the hub best,imo.
I bet the Buchanon spokes are nice, I've not had the pleasure. Actually, I think I got spokes from Scramber Cycle too, ICR. I can't say if there were any wire gauge to hole diameter issues, but that is important. I think the 'neck' dimension (the bent part) has a lot to do with stretching, as the spokes adjust to tension when pulled up. I've also seen variations between NOS OEM and new production OEM, so not sure paying a premium for Honda labeling is worth it.
Yet another reminder that videos are often wrong, regardless the subject matter. Glad you noticed before you got too far.
I'm far from an expert on lacing wheels as mentioned, but I wonder if you should wait until after the rims are trued?
I like the look, turned out really nice.
I meant that I will have that all done when I take them in to have the tires mounted.
www.heidenautires.com
Ah, at first I thought you meant after you mounted the tires. Tires are no fun, but I still do mine myself because if anyone pinches the tube I want it to be me, and not be riding around on a tube someone else pinched and didn't tell me they repaired.
Many here use Heidenau tires and if you're going for a vintage look with a more modern tire, they fit the bill. I originally ran Dunlop K70s for the vintage, period-correct look but after a trip to the mountains and over 100 miles of twisties, I decided to go with modern tread tires for the improved handling so I went with Shinkos.
I run Shinko 712 tires on my bike and they do come in the vintage/inch sizes.
When I looked at Shinko, those were the ones that caught my eye. Would the handling be substantially different than the Hidenau?
I've never purchased Hidenau yet,it looks like a nice touring tire.
I feel confident on the road w/ the Shinko tires.
I like the Heidenau tires, they're on the CL350 and CB400T1 I gave my son.
Looks good. Blistered chrome is good excuse to go proper alloy rims.
What thickness rubber is Standard on those Michelin tubes, 1.3mm ?
This says 1.5mm.
www.michelinman.com
Choosing colors on the internet is always a crapshoot, but that red looks pretty dang close, perhaps a touch softer that the HRC R134 "Fighting Red", which surprisingly looks like it has a touch more of an orange tint to it. Color Rite does sell that exact paint code if that's what you were going for https://www.colorrite.com/product/honda-r134-fighting-red-1335.cfm
I ended up going with RAL 3020 (traffic red) on the seat cowl. Trying to match that on the tank. The MTN is as close as I've been able to get in a rattle can (I think that explains the 3020 in the product number). I like the fact that it is flat (will have a high gloss clear coat).
Pattern front mudguards for the Honda CG125 are a good match for the CB175 part, and cheap as chips. Just a little too long at the rear. All mounting holes line up correctly. Seen here on my CB175 in the foreground. Honda Modena Red car paint under 2K clear coat.
I had my final crash on my CB250G5 on those tyres, they were not that grippy on a cold wet morning. That said, I have the modern equivalent K82 tyres on my CL175. They grip fine in the dry, but are still 'twitchy' when upright, compared with the more modern rounded Avon and Michelin tyres on my other two 175s.
I did use Continental ribbed/block F/R same as on the BMW's we sold and also liked Metzeler's, both were way better than AVON Roadrunners which always wore 'square'
